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Chris Schwarz just posted details on the “soft wax” that he uses. Just more input https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/07/12/cook-your-own-linseed-oil-wax-finish/#comments
I think Jeff Miller wrote an article in Fine Woodworking several years ago about a Rube Goldberg jig to do this. IIRC, Paul poo-pooed the whole idea and said that the loss of strength on an angled tenon was negligible. If it wasn’t Paul, it was someone else I respect.
A tinted finish is known as a toner, sometimes called a shader. I’ve used them extensively in the touch up business. They are also quite common in commercial furniture factories as they are quick to apply and (lacquer versions) are quick to dry. They also repair with more ease if there is transit damage.
In my experience, they are best sprayed in very light coats. Attempting to brush usually results in a streaked finish (voice of experience speaking here). They also go from not quite to too much very quickly, so go very light coats. Better 3 thin coats than one thick one. You can buy pre-tinted lacquer in aerosols sold to the touch up industry. In the USA, Guardsman and Mohawk are two large brands. Most of Guardsman’s are pigmented, but Mohawk sells both dye and pigment versions. Jeff Jewitt also sells Trans-Tint dyes that are compatible with shellac, but again spray in light coats. If you have never used any of these before, practice on scrap until you get the hang of it.
First clean off accumulated dirt, body oil, wax, etc. with dish detergent and water, then mineral spirits or naphtha (the latter just evaporating a bit faster). Let dry. Most of the superficial stuff will go away with a light coat of finish. The most likely finish on there now, if it’s a factory-finished place, is lacquer. So using lacquer will “burn in” to the under layers rather than sitting on top and risk peeling off. You can easily apply lacquer (or shellac) with an aerosol can. If the piece has ever had a furniture polish containing silicone oil (e.g., Pledge), then shellac will work better as it won’t fish-eye. If you find the need to use shellac, you can put lacquer over the shellac if the shellac is too shiny for you.
If there is color loss in some areas, you can either leave them, or you can get colored lacquers, known as toners, from places that cater to the touch up trade. In USA, the larger ones are Mohawk Finishing, Guardsman, and Wood Finisher’s Depot. Sometimes you can find a local Mohawk retailer, but all do internet sales.
IF you do an internet search on “Saving the Finish Jeff Jewitt” you will find an article that he’s written on the subject, including finishes beyond repair (which yours does not appear to be from the photos). He prefers shellac or wax at the end, but I think he’s more oriented toward antique restoration, or he may be in the wax vs. no-wax camp (he sells the waxes 🙂
HTH
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