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Greg,
Yep, that was the goal. I find the rack to be very similar to the one you showed us here. I based it on the one feature in Popular Woodworking magazine. We see it in many of the pictures. I got the feeling you had done the same thing.
The French Cleat system helps to make it all flexible. It’s not as fancy or tidy as other shops I’ve seen but, I like being able to change it all up easily if decide to. I think I have a commitment issue. hahahah
It ain’t purty but …it works. Here’s my current tool rack and, my shop dog saw horses — which are holding up a solid core door and together, make a workbench. 🙂
I’m in the process of building a shed which will become my new workshop. After that’s done, I’ll build a better workbench. Something along the lines of a Roubo Style.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.This is a nice video, Thanks Ken!
I’ve recently become interested in carving. Although I’ve been following Peter Follansbee for a couple of years now, I’ve not been interested until recently.
David Gill, I bought both of his DVDs on the subject and he addresses the wood. He says the Riven is best, followed by quarter sawn then flat sawn. But they’ll work. As far as species, he favors Oak (of course).
I would think even your “cheap gouges” should work fine. Just sharpen them before starting … and then probably pretty frequently during the process. 🙂
Yeah, the video has an icon next to the “about” and “share” icons … it has the text of the narration … whata-ya-call-it … transcribed. Yeah that’s it.
Hover your mouse in the lower right hand corner of the video (above). When you see the youtube logo, click it. It should take you to the youtube site where you can see those icons I’m talking about.
Anyway … they did mention saw dust being used under the floor …or somewhere.
That cabin looked like a blend between a log cabin and timber framing. I’d like to build something along those lines someday. Maybe I’ll build my shop like that someday … maybe.
If that is correct, I think the entire “free hand” sharpening method that Paul uses and teaches is prone to that result.
But, I don’t think the “rounding over” thing is anything to worry about. Paul addresses it (I believe) in at least one of his sharpening videos. I think the one wherein he’s sharpening the chisel.
If that is a concern, I would think one could use the “free hand” method for quicker, faster sharpening. Then periodically, use the angle guide method to restore the flatter 25* bevel — from time to time.
Here’s the video. It should start at 2:41 where he points it out.
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