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13 February 2024 at 3:48 pm #829051
The previous post should read countersink, chamfer, and deburring tool.
Word replacement strikes again.
13 February 2024 at 3:32 pm #829049I don’t know what specific brand paul uses , but the is I think you are looking for are widely available from various sources as countersink chamfer and debarring tools.
Two sources that have them are harbor freight ( warrior brand) and Amazon in the USA in several price ranges from about $8 for a set of three to over $25 for one.
I suspect you get what you pay for.27 January 2024 at 7:13 am #826603There are several things that could contribute to brittle teeth in addition to where on the tooth line you set a tooth.
What can change the structure of steel is the amount of brown oxide ( rust ) or black oxide ( patina ) the saw plate has endured in its lifetime. Any iron that is converted to oxide increases the proportion of carbon in the remaining steel and also makes that steel more like a sponge or Swiss cheese, making it weaker and more brittle. Take a loupe to an old saw and you may see some of that.
And there is the possibility that older cast steel wasn’t always as uniform as modern steels to begin with. One of the processes a saw plate used to go through was hammering to tension the plate near , but not on, the tooth line. What this did was work harden ( paul calls it “consolidating” when he talks about card scraper sharpening ) parts of the plate that eventually became part of the tooth line with repeated sharpening. Generally, the better saws had more of this hammering done than cheaper plates because it was skilled labor intensive. A study of old Disston saws reported no difference in the steel between their saws but reported their “extra refined steel” likely only referred to the amount of tensioning in more expensive saws.
One saw company, Simonds, stopped making handsaws around 1923 over a labor dispute about the relative higher pay of these specialists compared to other workers who unionized.
I don’t think modern factory produced saw plates suffer from any work hardening-tensioning as part of the saw making process, and probably haven’t since at least WWII. At least I haven’t seen any pictures of gangs of workers hammering plates with hammer and anvil since the 20’s or 30’s. Later sawmakers either used more complex steels or ignored the issue altogether. Modern induction hardened saws have never seen a hammer. Only modern “boutique” sawmakers might do some tensioning, and if they do, they are sure to let you know it.
21 January 2024 at 6:09 pm #825689Just be careful what kind of screws you use. I built my kitchen cabinets about 25 years ago and hung them with French cleats.
Lots of heavy plates in one cabinet.
All was fine until one cabinet spontaneously fell while I was having morning coffee. After examination the screws I used ( drywall type screws) had sheared clean off. Magically, the cabinet and counter were fine and only a few plates broke.
Needless to say I found some larger diameter screws that weren’t hardened like drywall screws and made for the task. I think they were Strongtie timber screws.
I live in earthquake country so I did add a couple of lower screws to stop the cabinets from jumping off the cleats in a bad tremor. That might save the cabinets but probably not the plates.18 January 2024 at 9:21 pm #825363You can use less drastic methods by just immersing the whole plane in vinegar or citric acid overnight to remove rust. The weak acids won’t harm the rosewood handles and will free up loose bolts and nuts. It will turn the brown rust ( Fe2 O3) to a black film (Fe3 O4) which comes off easily.
Then rinse the parts with water and a little detergent to wash off the acid ( add a little baking soda if you wish ) and clean the parts up with a metal polish like Autosol of Maas to get rise of the black.
26 December 2023 at 6:47 am #823185The use of pumice and rotten stone ( Tripoli ) I’ve done is not with a brush, but with felt pads and fine pounce pads like those used in French polishing
There are a couple schools of thought on the exact process,depending on the sheen you are shooting for, as with any skill. But generally the pumice does the coarse abrading between coats and is followed by the finer Tripoli at the end if you are shooting for a higher sheen. I’m certainly no expert with it, and have only gone through the process when forced to.They are rubbed in with the pads and either small quantities water or oils like raw linseed oil or mineral oil, then cleaned off with naphta or mineral spirits. Water is not compatible with a shellac finish. I just use mineral oil from the pharmacy.
I have read that residue on carvings is cleaned off with a shoeshine brush, but I have no first hand experience with that. A fine brush might help dust off the residue.
https://assets.leevalley.com/Original/10091/20058-rottenstone-c-01-e.pdf
The first piece I ever made at age 9 was polished off with rotten stone at the behest of my mentor. I remember getting sent back to try some more several times until the piece passed muster. I remember the process took me longer than building the piece, which explains my aversion to it.
17 December 2023 at 1:28 am #822258Sumitsubo are used in all kinds of trades, including house and temple carpentry, furniture, steel, and stonework. Keep in mind that lots of furniture work starts out with boards ‘ in the rough’ with lots of time spent at the planing beam to prepare the wood.. final planing . Removes the marks.
And while I’m sure that a practiced artisan can spend a day doing layout with the ink pot without soiling his hands, that wasn’t my experience with the little time I trialed one.
10 November 2023 at 12:43 am #818628I have a couple of those chalk boxes and the item that stops the “leaking” is some felt pads that the line passes through. It’s possible to slow the leaking considerably by just turning the pads upside down so the line has a new surface to run over and by shimming them closer to each other.
For your issue break the chalk box in with the ultra thin line( I assume by Tajima). You can make the pads work better if you shim them with something like cereal box cardboard until you get the effect you want.. if the felt is too worn you will have to make replacement pads from felt glued up to thickness with rubber cement. Cut it to shape with a razor blade or really sharp chisel. You use to be able to buy new pads, but I think those days are long gone. Really clean and fine work generally requires a person at each end of the line and a small flick of the line away from the work to get loose chalk off the line.You might want to consider buying a Tajima chalk box that will probably work better and has the advantage that they are geared to allow faster reeling if you are doing a lot of layout work. They are available with different thickness lines preloaded. You will never fully eliminate the excess powder.
For really fine lines for furniture work the Japanese use lines in boxes that are loaded with ink, not chalk. Their disadvantage is inky hands. Tajima also makes those boxes and ink in different colors. Furniture layout in Japan is done with those boxes.
- This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by Larry Geib.
27 September 2023 at 6:34 am #814516Great refurbishment. Nice choice on the tote pattern and well executed. It even looks like you were able to save some of the etching.
6 April 2023 at 7:06 pm #797344Hi.
Two things to look into before you Spring for a new machine. The Carter guides are very nice, but they will do nothing to correct for drift. Even they tell you to align the blade without the guides engaged.1) the riser Block addition raises red flags. It may be that the upper and lower wheels are no longer properly aligned. If your alignment problems started when you installed the riser, you may have your culprit.
There are several tutorials on the Interwebs on aligning the wheels and tires. Two places to look are from Carter YouTube offerings and Michael Fortune, also on YouTube. One often overlooked adjustment is aligning the lower wheel assembly with the upper one with shims. Soda cans make good shim stock.2) drift is often just a misaligned table. Most are held on to the saw with four bolts trough oversized bolt holes. Back off the bolts a turn or so and bump the table in the corrective direction, tighten the bolts back up and try again.
Michael Fortune, who has 11 bandsaws in his shop at last count, has a video specifically about drift. Give it a try before you give up on your saw .Ok, three things.
Put a new high quality blade on your saw. It’s very easy in a moment of carelessness to degrade the tooth line on one side of the blade. You can try stoning the other side by placing a stone ( I use an old diamond plate ) on the side of the blade and turning the wheel backwards a couple turns by hand to reduce the set a little, but if that doesn’t work, put a new blade on. It’s a mistake to use a blade too long. They are cheap and disposable unless you are a masochist.
Drift is not a reason to replace a band saw. I’ve never seen a saw that couldn’t be corrected. My current saw is pushing 95 years old without losing alignment with one bearing replacement in that span.
28 March 2023 at 1:57 am #796276Mathew,
Your frog isn’t defective or anything. That was the design of the frog assembly between 1878 and 1904 ( or 1902).
There was no forward machined area for the frog to sit on. I have a 1904-Ish number 4c that is made the same way.
It works fine, but is fiddler to Mount correctly. Subsequent methods have a rib to help align the frog.Patrick’s supertool site has some info on four of the frog mounting methods Stanley used over the years.
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htmTry turning the frog a bit before you tighten down the 2 frog mounting screws. Sometime what appears to be square isn’t.
14 March 2023 at 8:50 am #794788I fortunately just bought some Johnson’s so I’m probably good till I croak.
But another wax to consider is Briwax , which I tend to use on antique furniture. It requires more buffing to get a sheen and is a more satiny sheen than Johnson’s. It also comes in tinted varieties which will hide scratches better ( I have brown and black). I sometimes use tinted if I want to accentuate open grains. Just make sure to first use a coat of the clear first. Applied directly to raw wood, the tinting is pretty strong.13 January 2023 at 2:35 am #786993You can use a bevel tool instead of a square and adjust it so measurements off both sides of the iron agree.. then sharpen to a line drawn on the iron at that setting.
But replacement irons aren’t that expensive if you aren’t buying boutique irons. . A new iron with parallel sides will save you that grief every time you sharpen.
6 January 2023 at 1:38 pm #785958Here are some thoughts that might help.
I was going to suggest you try hide glue like OBG also It has a 30 minute open time and the wood will slide better. Claims have been made tha it gives better full coverage in the joint than PVA in very tight joints. Use it warmed up per directions and the joint will go together more easily.
I just warm it with in a bath of hot water out of the tap ( 125° F or so – 52°C). Lastly, it is reversible with heat and moisture. For a longer open time, warm the wood.
The downside is you have to keep your project in clamps longer.
If you can’t find OBG, Titebond’s hide glue works ok too, or make your own by salting hot hide glue. Plenty of info on the web.But that doesn’t solve the issue of the wood swelling before you complete the glue up. Work quickly and it won’t let the water in the glue time to enter the wood with either type of glue.
If you want to stay with PVA, try Titebond 3. It has a longer open time than original or type 2 ( 8-10 min vs 3-5 min) Titebond says you can thin it 10% with little loss of strength.
And while a joint fit that won’t come apart even before glueing is impressive, it isn’t always a practical way to size your joints. With larger work. Consider a thou or two allowance for glue in the joint. It will still be plenty strong enough. Try wetting the tenon and then putting the joint together without glue to judge when the joint is too tight. Shaving the tenon is a great job for a shoulder plane. A router works also. Sandpaperglued to a board works in a pinch.
29 December 2022 at 5:32 pm #785020I’m not sure what you are asking.
First off, I don’t know what filing rip cuts progressively means. You file saw teeth, not rip cuts.
Do you mean you file your saw teeth as rip saws with progressively steeper pitch along the saw plate from toe to heel, or what?.Second, I don’t think paul said that a saw dedicated to cross-cutting should be filed as a rip saw. I think he meant that for general purpose use it doesn’t make a lot of difference in small tooth sizes. A rip pattern in small sizes will be adequate for most cross-cutting and is a little easier to file. Tage Frid said the same thing 50 years ago.
But if your goal is to have a dedicated cross cut saw, I think you should file it as a crosscut saw like several centuries of craftsmen have done before you. The cross cuts will be faster and smoother and with a little less effort. It’s only a little more involved that filing a rip pattern. You just have to keep track of which direction each alternating tooth is filed. And you might want to use a slightly finer file to get an adequate gullet.
Here is a video by Paul on filing a saw as a crosscut saw
And there is a Bad Axe saws treatise on filing, which I think is invaluable in explains your options.
Just Google “ bad axe filing “ for that. Your likely first hit will show you geometries for Rip, crosscut, and Hybrid patterns.But if you want to file all your fine saws with a rip pattern, , you can do that also. Just file your saws with a more rake, say 10° or 15° or so for the saw you are going to only crosscut with.
Saws will start easier if you put a little more rake in the teeth for the first inch or two. Saws with the front face of the teeth dead vertical will be harder to start in crosscut situations.- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Larry Geib.
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