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29 January 2020 at 2:55 am #646853
I’m glad you posted this video. If there’s anything I’ve learned through Paul and on my own, it’s that modern manufacturing techniques do not have quality as the top priority. Modifying this jig, which I have in my sharpening equipment station, will give me a much better feeling about sharpening my 1/4″ and smaller chisels, and my small Record 50 plow plane blades. I did them by hand before and it was…less than successful/acceptable. Thanks again for the post!
11 December 2019 at 3:10 am #635362I purchased the saw you’re looking at Mark. Problem 1 with the saw: The set is done in the same way as a hacksaw. The teeth are not individually and alternately set, instead there is a wave pattern to the plate to create set. Problem 2: The handle is held in place with rivets instead of screws. Re-sharpening is a bit more difficult when you can’t remove the handle. These two things are not deal breakers by any means, however. The weight is nice and keeps the saw in the cut without any extra pressure by the hand. I have a Veritas dovetail saw and many other old tenon and dovetail saws via the eBay path, and I prefer the old ones and the Veritas to the S&J. The kerf of the Veritas is wonderfully thin and true. The old saws are easy to sharpen and I can control the set however I need. The professional model of the S&J tenon saw is the one I should have bought. More money but better saw that you can re-sharpen and addresses the two issues I raised. Hope this helps.
27 June 2019 at 12:53 am #584733I just bought some lumber yesterday that was felled during the drought here in California. Wood was already cut and drying, but not ready for projects. Here’s how I have it in my garage with a fan blowing and the garage cracked a bit and the side door open for circulation.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 May 2019 at 4:30 pm #558461I’ve used the diamond paddle files that Paul recommends to great effect. Useable in other sharpening areas so it’s more bang for the buck. Three paddles are around $30 US and are available in the UK from EZE-Lap.
1 May 2019 at 1:56 am #557636Allen,
A picture’s worth a thousand words isn’t it? You have one of the “newer” models (mine still has the booklet with it, copyrighted 1944!). Anyway, I completely agree with Larry above. A little love from a file should help align the rod to the other one. In my non-metallurgical opinion, this looks like a casting issue when they made the plane body. Not beyond hope, however! Good luck with that filing! Welcome again to the forums!PR
30 April 2019 at 6:10 am #557511Allen,
Well that does make a problem, doesn’t it? When you unscrew the rods from the body does the end of the crooked rod make a circle? If so it means that the rod is bad. If it stays still when unscrewed then the casting of the plane body is bad. There are rods available on ebay if need be, BUT if the rods still accept the fence maybe the fence itself might keep the rods far enough apart. Without seeing the rods I won’t say that’s a good idea, but it might be possible. Put the fence back on and see the angles of the rods compared to the body and check the distance from to the body along the length of the fence.
As an aside, try placing a straight edge along the rods to see if they are bent or curved. If not I would look to the threads in the body of the plane.29 April 2019 at 8:24 pm #557467Allen,
First off, welcome! I, too, have a Record 050. For clarification are the rods to which you are referring the fence guide rods? Are they parallel with each other but out of square with the skates on the plane or are they out of parallel with each other AND out of square with the skates?PR
25 April 2019 at 4:16 pm #557042As an addendum: Aside from the lubrication check to make sure that you have the set fine enough. If the blade is too deep and proper technique, i.e. putting more pressure on the tote at the end of the stroke, is used then the plane might be riding on the bevel of the blade near the end of the stroke. If all else fails I have found that skewing the plane more than normal presents the blade at a shallower angle and that helps. I have had to do that with some birch that had some swirly grain and it made a huge difference.
23 April 2019 at 5:39 am #556774Alex,
I do have this happen on occasion. The clue I would lock in on is the fact that it happens at the far end of the board. I would guess that during the first part of the board you’re building up friction and the wood/plane is reacting differently during the cutting action here. Try adding some lubrication to the bottom of the plane and start at the trouble area and work back to the already smoothed part. Keep the set shallow so there is no scalloping and blend the two surfaces together. Hope this helps.PR
13 March 2019 at 5:02 pm #555530I hope this hasn’t been covered in an earlier reply to this post (there are a lot of long posts on this topic), but an idea I heard was to call your local municipality and ask what they do with the wood from fallen trees or trees that need to be removed for safety/logistical reasons within your city. Here in California we have a lot of oak trees that fall or are damaged in storms and get removed by cities. I’ve called and queried them about this and they either contract out or remove the tree through their agency and throw the wood in a chipper or in the local landfill. I’ve been able to get some of these logs/large branches for free. I take it to a local mill (local means 35 miles one way) and they, for a minimal fee will rough cut it to a size I can stack and begin seasoning. A little time and effort and I save on money and frustration. Hope this helps.
11 January 2019 at 10:55 pm #554456I have the same problem on my dovetail saw. I found that a single tooth tip was a little more dull than the other and the saw was catching on that one tooth. Instead of having a chisel action the tooth was hitting the fibers and, instead of severing, it was acting like a plane going against the grain and lifting the fiber. This caused the little fiber to stop the whole saw from moving through. Don’t know if this solves the problem but maybe it can eliminate one more possibility and narrow your search further.
15 December 2018 at 10:46 pm #553891I would qualify every answer/suggestion with, “what is the intended use?” I put shellac on a lot of stuff as a finish to seal the wood, then I put a final finish based on the use of the item. Marking gauges get wax to aid in their sliding across wood while working, dovetail template has more shellac or some french polish to maintain a smooth surface for accurate registration for layout, etc. Winding sticks could get shellac then after sanding a layer or two of wax applied with #0000 steel wool (similar to Briwax) to leave a matte finish.
How you apply a finish can sometimes make as much of a difference as what you apply. Find some videos on applying violin varnish and you’ll see how they use pumice stone, rotten stone, and tripoli to reach the desired luster and sheen. The same concept can be applied to finish on your items.26 November 2018 at 2:50 am #553499It looks like the stones are for different purposes. I found some other x6 stones on the website and they were under the hunting/fishing section. It looks like the 6 is for a stone with a groove in the middle for sharpening fish hooks. Check here for the specific page. Hope this helps.
5 April 2018 at 9:56 pm #518741As long as your rebate plane has a nicker and a depth stop in it two planes might be better than one. My Record 050A has a T&G cutter, reed cutters, depth stop, and straight cutters, but it also has a scoring spur/nicker on either side for fillisters. If I have to go from T&G to rebates right away I would rather have two planes ready to go as Larry said above. If you are doing them separately then I’d rather have the combination plane.
5 April 2018 at 9:49 pm #518736Those half blind dovetails look very clean! I am curious about the rail, though. I’ve not made any drawers so this is a question from ignorance: how much weight is that rail supposed to hold? I ask because I want to put drawers in the end of my workbench once it’s complete and I would like to make a sturdy rail to hold the weight of the items I plan on putting in my drawer. Can’t wait for your next pictures!
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