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3 July 2021 at 5:43 pm #719641
Hi Mark. I find there’s never enough screws in my shop or they’re all the wrong size so worth buying a box of assorted sizes from screwfix, wickes etc.
As important is making sure the driver you use (on a drill attachment usually) is the right size otherwise you’ll just keep turning the heads off! Definitely worth getting an assortment of driver bits to suit different screws.
Good luck,
Mark
27 January 2021 at 12:45 pm #698766Dear Apprentices, Journeymen and Masters.
Here’s my experience if it helps? I work in a shared shop in the UK. We started with a second hand Record machine (350E) It is mainly used to rip larger pieces for stock prep. It needed a lot of adjusting and it didn’t always cut straight. After much adjustment and with a brand new blade it would cut a good straight line in 60mm Sapele. The blade guides have to be really carefully set and you must get the teeth right on the centre of the tyres. Because the machine is old it would not hold tension for long, the upper wheel adjustment was very worn. It was not noisy and you could get buy using a shop vac (Henry?) If you spent the time setting the machine up, it would do the job well, but you could never just walk up to it and go. However, because we are a shared shop, there’s no knowing how much use the machine was getting. I suspect it got some fairly hard abuse before it was key locked and made available only to users who could be bothered to read the manual. (The joys of a shared shop!) The machine is now semi retired and with light use it still does a reasonable job of ripping big bits.
We now have a Startrite 352 (second hand) I set it up for the first time yesterday. This is a much heavier and chunky machine and is therefore on wheels with wheel brakes. The setup was relatively easy. It came with a box spanner but you’ll need a ring spanner to adjust the guides. The blade tension is really simple to operate. With a new 1/2 inch 4tpi blade it ripped 60mm of oak in reasonably straight lines, but the timber was cupped and bowed.
Overall, I think bandsaws are good for stock prep. They are not accurate enough to do thicknessing and they cut nearly square depending on the timber so you still have some prep to do before you start work.
Hope that helps,
Mark
18 June 2020 at 4:57 pm #666067Gents, Many thanks for your help, and kind comments.
I hadn’t realised that the plane would be used by running alongside a temporary fence / guide. Now it makes sense! (Although it did at first seem like Rafi’s initial description might be right)
I attach a photo with the maker’s mark – Sandusky tools Ohio, as Darren requested. (Which book please Tenjin)
In fact my friend was kind enough to send me a box of tools, many of them are by Sandusky and they are all similarly excellent!
Thanks,
Mark
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.14 March 2019 at 6:15 pm #555541Hello Paul. I use a shared workshop where not everybody is quite as meticulous about using the extractors so there is often dust around. However, we do have a ceiling mounted dust extractor. At first I wasn’t sure if it was doing very much, but having cleaned it twice (replacing the filters) and I am amazed at how much dust it is gathering. Dust which would otherwise be airborne. It is a Record unit and it works very well. Might be worth thinking about.
31 July 2017 at 10:12 pm #314206Hello everyone. Your help would be much appreciated. I have just “acquired” a piece of furniture which started life as a “Plan-Cabinet” It consists (now) of 6 drawers approx.. 4ftx 2ft x 5ins. Inside each drawer is a massive chunk of mahogany which was inserted to keep the plans (mainly wooden boat draught plans) flat and protected. Like a big paperweight. The amount of flat, thick, stable mahogany is truly unusual even for this region (I live in the land of Waring and Gillow) I wouldn’t normally attack such a venerable piece but it’s already been partially dismantled (I was told there is a glass fronted cabinet which the drawer unit used to support, and which has been sold off separately) I wonder if anyone has any tips on dismantling? The drawers themselves have the most delightful hand cut dovetails, with around 1/16″ laps. The drawer bottoms are fine panels which “float” inside grooves. If anyone has tackled a piece like this and has any advice on dismantling I would be most grateful,as I feel like a diamond cutter who has just been asked to re-cut the Cullinan!
Thanks. Mark
4 June 2016 at 12:44 am #137592Gents! Thanks for the tips. I will try your recommendations.
I suspect that “holding” 500mm. drawers in the vise might not help, as the wood is not really supported, so Pauls’ last video on clamping might also help?
Thanks again. Mark -
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