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Hi Kevin,
I think most of us start with softwood yes. I suppose it’s cheaper when you make mistakes. Not necessarily more forgiving as it dents / dings / crumples easily.
I would also say that when I started out I went out and bought wide boards of pine and spent hours trying to flatten them / dimension them / square end grain etc…
Not that this isn’t important.. BUT … I WISH someone would have told me that B&Q sell ‘pine stripwood’ (I think it’s under the name Richard something) in perfect thicknesses and widths for projects like the dovetail boxes… So if you’re looking to get little stock to start you off on some small projects it’s perfect! (I would say that the lengths sometimes have lengthening joints in them that looks kinda like a zigzag.. avoid those pieces and some of it has some lovely grain etc)
After you get some practice in, then go looking for a good mill etc.
Hope that helps.
Martyn
Hi Michael,
Welcome to WWMC 🙂
I agree with all of the above.. I would say I’m only about four years in myself…
I would add that you say that the workbench project is ‘out of your league’ .. I would say that after getting some sharpening experience and a few practice joints I would tackle the workbench.
From personal experience nothing brought my sawing and planing skill up to scratch like that project. MY Mortice and tenon joints may be a challenge but having a finished workbench will be a major confidence boost and because all the joints are fairly large and after all it is a workbench.. It doesn’t have to be really pretty.
That would be my advice after a month or so of practice. ( I think my first project was the side table from Paul’s book.. Not the best idea haha)
Let us all know how it goes!
Martyn Chick
Hi Guys,
I did a lot of pausing and zooming on Paul’s videos to see if I could work out how he did it…
I put rebates in the front edge and sides of the lid, and also all the way around the drawers. I then (with varying degrees of success at first) ripped some thin stock and put a bullnose on one edge… (ended up producing the thin pieces using a plough plane … the ‘waste’ if you like, became the bit that was needed if you plough from the face and then the edge and meet in the middle)..
Then I glued and panel pinned it on and mitred at the corners. Filled the holes with some matching wax filler after setting the nail heads and planing the beading flush with the adjacent edge.
… On the last episode of the tool chest series / the episode on finishing with shellac… Paul is seen in the opening of the video filling some holes… This was also a clue to his method.
Did the same thing but without the rebates / glue for the book matched lid panels.
Hope that helps .. Probably could have explained better.
MC
Hi Matt,
I did make a door on a college joinery course however the specifics of external doors were not really talked through.
I would say that member wise.. Steve Follis made two wonderful looking frame and panel doors that may not have come up on your search as they were titles ‘Garage doors’ .. So they would be external.. Maybe have a search and give him a message. Sure he would be happy to discuss.
And as George said above.. Lost art press… I have a number of their books and they are always of high quality.
Martyn
Hi,
I have had the same thing when using the liberon Shellac sanding sealer..
To be honest I didn’t look too far into the causes and went straight back to cutting my own shellac flakes..
I would be keen to work out why it happened also.. I don’t think there was high humidity in my workshop when this applied. I did indeed go back over the patches with Alcohol. That did work.
Hope you work it out.
Martyn
I really like the different grain of the breadboard end.
I sympathise with your horror! Certainly wouldn’t want to take it apart.
I would second Matthews idea of fitting a slip in the gap. With the way Sapele grain works I think you could make it disappear with some care.
Hope it goes ok!
Martyn
This looks absolutely fantastic !
I’m sure you are very happy with it.
I am about to start my PS chest finally… I would like to add cockbead as you have but no video covered this… Did you find it fairly straight forward? Any tips would be great!
Love the cord used for the stay also!
Thanks for sharing.
Martyn
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