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23 October 2020 at 4:09 pm #683417
For softwoods your best bet is the big box stores. Most carry varying grades of pine in 3/4″ stock. For Mr. Sellers bench design, Douglas fir 2×4’s and/or southern yellow pine (best picked up as 2×10’s/12’s and dimensioned down) works fine. Stay away from the white wood, it’s just to soft. Just follow Mr. Sellers video’s for how to prep.
For hardwoods, look specifically for hardwood dealers, not lumber yards, and be prepared to to drive a fair distance, 75 miles +, for one that sells to the general public, if you don’t live in or close to a large city. Most big cities will have a couple that sell to the general public. Menard’s, Lowe’s, Home Depot all sell some some hardwood and it will be planed (locally, Mid-Missouri, Menard’s has the best selection). You will pay significantly more for the hardwood wood in the big box stores and quality can be questionable.
13 May 2020 at 5:00 pm #661214This can be done with glue alone as this is a long grain to grain conection, which is very strong. This will work fine with plywood casings as half your plys are long grain. Just glue and clamp. I have seen dowels used, but, that mainly helps with alignment. By far the most common method is glue and nail. The nails are used to avoid clamping and are hidden with putty..
3 May 2020 at 2:39 am #659753The 50 came with a screw to hold the smallest blades ( J in the attached ). You will need that. you can find Stanleys instructions here: http://www.hansbrunnertools.com/Stanley%20by%20numbers/Stanley%2050.htm
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.27 April 2020 at 9:46 pm #658944It looks like a flat sawn piece and the full width of the log. You have several cathedrals, lots of reversing grain, particularly down the center of the board. You’ve tried a light set with a very sharp blade. Sometime a board just can’t be planed. Try a card scraper and/or a cabinet scraper, that should do the trick.
25 April 2020 at 1:58 pm #6586311. I hook my shop vac up to the dust extraction port. It seems to pull most of the fine dust. Then clean up with a broom and the vac. My shop is in my garage, so I can be a little more dust tolerant. 2. The unit was heavy, but, manageable solo. Again this went into a garage. Probably should be a two man operation getting one into a basement. 3. I get about the same level of accuracy as I get with hand sawing, with about the same amount of planeing needed for clean up. For me the bandsaw has been more about saving labor than anything else.
23 April 2020 at 10:51 pm #658389I have 14″ very basic (all I could afford at the time) unit. Not a game changer, but, useful when dealing with larger projects that require curves or aches. The labor saving involved with re-sawing has also been helpful, although i’m limited to 6″. I feel that the $400 I spent wasn’t wasted, but, may have been better served to have saved up for a unit with better re-saw capacity. Noise and dust haven’t been an issue, both are fairly minimal with a band saw as compared with other shop machines.
5 December 2019 at 7:40 pm #633774Kitchen type base cabinets would work fine. I’ve been in a number of shops that recycled old kitchen cabinets from kitchen remodels and used them as shop cabinets. I’ve also set up 2 large maintenance shops using such cabinets; one plywood bases and one laminated particle board. Both used “formica” veneered kitchen counter tops. Both held up fine under the abuse of multiple, none to gentle, users, through neither stayed pretty for long.
4′ bases will be easier to make and install than 8′. When combined they will also be sturdier.
With the above said, I recently set up a third workshop in which I wanted the counter tops to function fully as secondary workbench tops. In this case I used simple 2 x 4
laminated H frame construction (3 1/2′ x 3″ legs with 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ cross members) to make a framework on which to attach a 3″ thick solid top (in this case made from solid core commercial doors). The H frames are attached directly to the wall studs. A ledger board is screwed into the wall to support the back of the counter top. The frames are spaced to accept free standing cabinets that can be slipped in between the framework. The cabinets themselves bear no load.This has worked well and is serving as the prototype for counters that I am planing on installing in my home shop. The only major change will be to use laminated boards (or plywood, like Mr. Sellers current bench) instead of door slabs for the counter top..
Hope this helps.
20 August 2019 at 10:43 pm #601221Glue alone should not be to weak, as it is typically a long grain to long grain connection, which is very strong.
26 February 2019 at 10:04 pm #555419Looks great. I like how you handled the plane stop. I’m currently building a bench for work and I may end up “borrowing” the concept.
21 February 2019 at 2:28 pm #555265I’m afraid your right, you have essentially rediscovered the wheel. This method was common enough that the old saw makers, like Disston and Atkins, made handles to accommodate the grip. Google Disston D8 thumbhole saw.
20 February 2019 at 4:10 pm #555251Using Mr. Seller’s methods, you shouldn’t have any issues with the drawers handling the utensil load, as long as you pay close attention to your tolerances. Cans and bottles could be more problematic depending on drawer size and load.
Wood on wood runs smoothly, particularly with a little wax on the contact surfaces, but, won’t match steel and ball bearing runners. It really depends on what you consider to be tolerably smooth.
I would note that steel and ball bearing (or wheel) runners are prone to failure over time. 20 years is a good general lifespan estimate. Wood can last hundreds of years.
4 January 2019 at 9:11 pm #554255The only significant issue would be that you will end up with “soft” and “hard” strips on your surface. This could lead, over time, to the surface becoming uneven. The spruce will compress and dent more readily than the cherry and your mystery wood.
You could, in theory, use that to your advantage by concentrating your hardwood at the front of the bench where it will receive the most wear. If your building an English style bench, like the one Mr. Sellers promotes, you could laminate them together for the apron or, better yet, the tool well.
1 October 2018 at 10:06 pm #552408The extra width, and length, can be useful when smoothing wider/longer pieces, like table tops. That said, I picked up my 4 1/2 primarily for the extra weight. As a purely personal preference, I prefer a heavier plane in general, (I use a 6 frequently, not just as a fore plane but as my primary shooting plan and as a joiner for smaller stock). I feel the extra weight aids me in working the wood with smoother, more flowing passes. I also like the larger ergonomic dimensions of the 4 1/2 over the 4, despite not being a particularly big guy.
Despite my preferences if I could only have one or the other it would be the 4. They cost less, new or used, are mush easier to find on the used market and they are simply more versatile.
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