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Mike Goodwin

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  • #601221
    Mike Goodwin
    Participant

    Glue alone should not be to weak, as it is typically a long grain to long grain connection, which is very strong.

    #555419
    Mike Goodwin
    Participant

    Looks great. I like how you handled the plane stop. I’m currently building a bench for work and I may end up “borrowing” the concept.

    #555265
    Mike Goodwin
    Participant

    I’m afraid your right, you have essentially rediscovered the wheel. This method was common enough that the old saw makers, like Disston and Atkins, made handles to accommodate the grip. Google Disston D8 thumbhole saw.

    #555251
    Mike Goodwin
    Participant

    Using Mr. Seller’s methods, you shouldn’t have any issues with the drawers handling the utensil load, as long as you pay close attention to your tolerances. Cans and bottles could be more problematic depending on drawer size and load.

    Wood on wood runs smoothly, particularly with a little wax on the contact surfaces, but, won’t match steel and ball bearing runners. It really depends on what you consider to be tolerably smooth.

    I would note that steel and ball bearing (or wheel) runners are prone to failure over time. 20 years is a good general lifespan estimate. Wood can last hundreds of years.

    #554255
    Mike Goodwin
    Participant

    The only significant issue would be that you will end up with “soft” and “hard” strips on your surface. This could lead, over time, to the surface becoming uneven. The spruce will compress and dent more readily than the cherry and your mystery wood.

    You could, in theory, use that to your advantage by concentrating your hardwood at the front of the bench where it will receive the most wear. If your building an English style bench, like the one Mr. Sellers promotes, you could laminate them together for the apron or, better yet, the tool well.

    #552408
    Mike Goodwin
    Participant

    The extra width, and length, can be useful when smoothing wider/longer pieces, like table tops. That said, I picked up my 4 1/2 primarily for the extra weight. As a purely personal preference, I prefer a heavier plane in general, (I use a 6 frequently, not just as a fore plane but as my primary shooting plan and as a joiner for smaller stock). I feel the extra weight aids me in working the wood with smoother, more flowing passes. I also like the larger ergonomic dimensions of the 4 1/2 over the 4, despite not being a particularly big guy.

    Despite my preferences if I could only have one or the other it would be the 4. They cost less, new or used, are mush easier to find on the used market and they are simply more versatile.

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)