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17 January 2018 at 1:39 pm #440976
Hi,
I like your suggestion about ‘tweaking’ the sole to match the hole. Next time the cutter needs a good sharpening, I might consider that approach. I have been using it for a year and have not needed to sharpen the cutter, all I do is strop it a few times before I use it.
Heh. I just noticed this is a year old. @mmitsialis probably got this all straightened out long ago. : – )
The way I ‘sorted it’ was to sharpen the cutter skew, so in the plane it is parallel to the surface, but out the cutter it is ‘off’.
I have posted some picture of creations, where I have used the tool.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/G7qD4vHSv8TixWS32Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.15 December 2017 at 12:56 pm #404723Hi,
Thanks for all the responses.
I have added a 7/35 and a 3/20 Pfeil gouge to my Santa list….
Let’s see if he is listening….
Enjoy the upcoming holidays all, and Xmas.
26 February 2017 at 10:00 pm #309548I like the look of this and would be interested to know how it worked
To test it i made some dados for a sliding lid. i am going to be making some boxes soon. Works like a charm.
So much easier to get the parallel faces over more than five or six centimetre, then paring with a chisel.
I had to tune the cutting edge as I couldn’t get a 100% perpendicular shaft for the iron.
I like the look of this and would be interested to know how it worked and if you would make any changes or improvements.
I am thinking of cutting a notch in the top of the iron and another screw behind it. This is to make the micro-adjustment that you can see on the Stanley Paul often uses.
The challenge is my iron is not 100% perpendicular to the base, so the clearance will be change depending on the depth of the cutter.
I battle to get 100% perpendicular holes drilled. I am using Pine so the bits shifts angle so easily. I made a metal jig using two 90 degree cabinet brackets to drill straight holes, and use a brace instead of a power drill. It better but still touch and go.
The not so poor mans router video is one I have not seen, would you be good enough to post a link?
Here is the link to Paul’s version
Not so poor man’s router – really works!
I made mine from two pieces of 150m x 80mm x 20mm pieces of pine laminated together. Then cut a dado and embedded a 30mm x 30mm x 40mm riser. Then a lot of shaping using a rasp after cutting some holes using a brace and 1/2inch Auger bit.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by Marc Mitsialis.
10 January 2017 at 1:01 pm #144072<quote quote=144065>Did you scribe a knife-wall on the sides of the mortise to ensure you stayed within your ultimate width? </quote>
Yes, I did scribe a knife-wall. I wanted to test @tomangle’s advice and my ability to implement accurately. Therefore the knife-wall was 0.5mm inside the pencil line.
<quote quote=144065>I ask b/c it looks like it was just a pencil line and hence it also looks like the mortise isn’t exactly straight on the edges.</quote>
The knife-wall was purposely 0.5mm inside the pencil line, so I have a buffer to correct my inexperienced mortisingAll the near edges are clean, but the far edges are not. So I need to develop my work on the far face. I also need to pay attention to the edges when levering the waste out.
All learning and experience.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by Marc Mitsialis.
9 January 2017 at 9:52 pm #144063Hi,
Amazon.com is selling the DMT W6EFC Three 6-Inch Diamond Whetstone Models in Hard Wood Box at present. Not sure what the shipping to the UK It is definitely less than to Africa, where the shipping is almost 30% of the price.
And the same sold locally seem to have an additional 60 to 70% markup.
Regards,
Marc- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by Marc Mitsialis.
9 January 2017 at 9:32 pm #144054Hi, All!
Thanks for everyone’s’ guidance. I have followed @tomangle’s advice on cutting on each face of the mortise, then cutting out the middle. I post my results, below.
I am very satisfied with the results. Some accuracy and control need to be developed, I little too much undercutting and lever marks on the one edges.
The process I followed is as such to cut the 18mm mortise:
Cut the left face with the 6mm chisel
Cut the right face with the 6mm chisel.
Roated the leg and repeated on the other side.
Then used the 16mm chisel to gently chop out the centre piece.
Rotate the leg and gently chopped the remainder of the centre piece.
Carefully pared the faces and ends with the 16mm chisel.I have used a slightly modified method to begin the mortise of a through dovetail mortise of 33mm. I did the first pass using the 6mm chisel, then using then used the 25mm chisel for the remaining side of 27mm. I could have done two passes using the 16mm. Although this approach was successful, I will do the remaining three using the 6mm for the edges, then clean up the middle with the 25mm. The added resistance and support of the middle section helps to the chisel remain square.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by Marc Mitsialis.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by Marc Mitsialis.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by Marc Mitsialis.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 January 2017 at 9:54 am #143992Hi,
Thanks for all the advice.
I like the idea of using a smaller chisel to make two narrow mortises and cleaning the waste in the middle suggested by @tomangle. This will assist in creating clean, sharp and square largeer mortises. I will use this preparing the legs for the bench I am working on.
My main issue is the mortises where the width is slightly wider the my chisel. I currently only have 6mm, 16mm, and 25mm chisels. Where I have to cut mortises 10mm, 20mm, or 30mm wide this won’t always work. This is mainly my inexperience in sizing my joints appropriately to the wood dimensions or not appropriately converting the reference designs from imperial to metric dimensions and my available tools. Thing will improve.
I will be acquiring more chisels and other tools slowly. I just bought (as a birthday gift to myself) a plunge router, Stanley #4 and Record #5 second hand. I was lucky and got all three for less than the current new price of a Stanley #4 where I live. Next steps is a decent set of sharpening stones.
Thanks for the advice @tomangle, @dperrott, @sojansson, @hugonotti
Happy woodworking,
Marc -
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