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4 September 2015 at 2:27 pm #130088
I recently read this book – very good and instructional on all aspects of wood, including identification. The main thing I learned – the only foolproof method to identify a cut piece of wood is looking at the end grain through a microscope.
Understanding wood : a craftsman’s guide to wood technology by Hoadley, R. Bruce.
18 August 2015 at 8:08 pm #129464I’m guessing you’re asking what type of western plane could do this?
If so, any type of rabbet plane could do this – something where the blade goes right to the edge.28 July 2015 at 9:11 pm #128872Tried to post this before but it didn’t work – trying again….
Looks like it was made around 1959 (see here for dating Record planes: http://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html)
A Google search shows two schools with that name – one in Coventry and the other in Abergavenny
28 July 2015 at 7:05 pm #128869Guessing it was probably a mark of a previous owner – King Henry VIII Grammar School?
9 July 2015 at 4:45 pm #128365Go with eBay – much cheaper, and older tools are often better built than their modern counterparts.
Just set up a saved search and keep watching daily until the right tool comes up at the right price. It doesn’t take long for popular tools like Stanley No4 planes – there’s lots of them.Regarding that specific handplane, I would recommend going for a traditional No4 plane, rather than that version. The traditional No4 has been used for over a hundered years, so you can’t go wrong with that.
Go to the local library and find a book on handtools and read all about them first. Knowledge is power!
Not to cross-advertise, but I did find the beginner tools section on this site very useful when starting out: http://woodandshop.com/
24 June 2015 at 2:50 pm #127994Are you sure the board is not bowed? Are the front and back of planes touching the board and the middle (where the blade is) is skipping over the board?
Have you tried planing across the grain, or twisting the plane at a 45 degree angle?3 February 2015 at 1:09 am #124274Interesting. I’ve had the same nagging thought after a couple months of using my coarse DMT. It’s such a subjective thing though, it’s hard to conclusively know if there’s a problem with it, or it’s just perception. They do state in their material that it will seems EXTRA coarse when you first start using it, but will ‘smooth’ out after the first few times.
I’ve been using mine to lap plane soles and blades. It works – but it’s slow. My conclusion was that I really needed the extra coarse to get the job done in a decent amount of time. I.e. it’s not the most efficient tool for the job of lapping.
I also noticed that mine has started turning a deep brown/black colour – anyone else’s doing that?
15 January 2015 at 9:12 pm #123571Thanks for the responses.
It has a couple of kinks and the tooth edge is concave (presumably from lots of use and re-sharpening) – about an eighth lower in the center compared to the heel and toe.
I’m going to lower the teeth at the back and front, re-cut them to the same depth and then reshape them (some look like rip teeth and some like cross-cut). Hoping it will turn out to be a good little cutter.First time doing any of this, but Paul makes it look soo easy, so it must be! 🙂
Matt
15 January 2015 at 4:28 pm #123566I’m new to woodworking so I’ve made one trip to a ‘real’ lumber yard (compared to HD). One major difference is that it’s harder to just browse. HD has everything nicely laid out and marked, and you don’t feel self-concious browsing. Not so much at the real lumber yard, this almost necessitates the need to talk to someone.
I think the best way to overcome the ‘newb’ fear is to face it head on. Don’t try and pretend you know what you’re doing, you’ll only feel more fear of failure, any it will probably show clearly to the experienced people. Come right out and say to them ‘this is my first time here. I don’t know what I’m doing. Can you show me what I need and where to find it to build X’
If you have a materials list they’ll easily be able to tell you what you need.I wonder if lumberyards had a special ‘newbie service’, or ‘newbie days’ whether they’d increase business by getting more people through the door who wouldn’t normally do it.
For me, the price and quality options overcame my fear. HD is very limited in species they stock and their prices are double the lumberyard prices.
I got what I went for on my first trip – it wasn’t a complete success, the guy cutting the wood either misheard me, or just didn’t listen and cut twice as much African mahogany as I wanted. I was too embarrassed to tell him about it after he had cut the wood so I just bought it. Worked out OK, because now I’m using it on other projects anyway. 🙂Matt
15 January 2015 at 4:06 pm #123562I also have the Lee Valley York vise. A good vise, but one thing that bugs me about it though is that there is no way to delay the clutch disengaging when backing off (opening) the vise. Sometimes I want the vice to screw open (and then closed) rather than having to pull it open and then push it closed. It’s quicker to screw open, screw closed, work, screw open, screw closed, work, etc. when you need to adjust the workpiece many times.
I’ve sort of come up with a solution whereby I jam a thin piece of wood into the side of the clutch housing. This stops the clutch from rotating when the vise is backed off and will therefore allow the screw to remain engaged. It only sort of works. I need to refine it more to make sure the wood stays put.
Anyone else have this problem, and unique methods of solving it?
Matt
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