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2 May 2020 at 11:29 am #659631
I have 26″ 24″ and 20″ rip cut saws, ranging from 5tpi to 10tpi,and following Paul’s method, I find they cut beautifully.
My first attampt on my 26″ 5tpi,i took some advice from an Internet article that said 0 rake is too difficult, so I set 8° rake, it was way to passive, hardly cut, and took for ever.
My advise is to check your set, too much set can cause it to be hard to saw.
Also once you the saw dulls abit it becomes easier with 0 rake30 April 2020 at 7:10 pm #659372I cleaned up a record 050 which was is worst state, you don’t need to buy any expensive rust removal stuff.
Just wired brush gently, too not remove the nice plating chrome plating, then soak in boiling water and citric acid for a few hrs, keep an eye on it, as it can cause the metal to go a dark color if left too long.
You can buy citric acid for dirt cheap, 1kg packs off amazon.12 April 2020 at 9:31 am #656767What angle have your sharpened your blades at, I had this with some no50 cutters, 25_35 is what you want anumything greater than 35 and the bevel rides on the wood
20 February 2020 at 6:03 am #649824I have a large tool chest, over flowing with tools that if I add up what I paid for them, would come to around £300.
Not one tool is of poor quality, call my strange, but I just couldn’t justify spending that much on one hand tool, a machine yes, second hand of the old school quality, but not a new hand tool of today’s makers.
Just not worth it, there’s so much more you could buy with all that money on the secondhand market31 January 2020 at 6:03 pm #647165I’ve worked on many properties in and around the west Midlands, and neber came across woodworm problems on any building inside or out.
Ever the national trust Stately homes I’ve seen don’t seem to suffer much, it’s all about mould and mildew to my knowledge.
I am usually wrong so take it with a pinch of salt9 November 2018 at 10:07 am #553113Tungsten steel is just fine, it may have had its edge over heated and it’s become brittle
Reguarding the lever cap, make sure the frog isn’t too far back from the mouth of the plane, this can cause issues like you explained
28 August 2018 at 12:08 pm #550663Need to see a pic of the threaded bit,if it isn’t long enough it won’t pull itself into the cut much after the initial boring,I’ve had this with many a bit.
If it’s too small I haven’t found a way to remedy this bar chucking em in the bin
28 March 2018 at 9:20 am #511827Also just grab an old saws for cheap off eBay and Re sharpen the teeth to his progressive rip cut pattern for 7tpi,that will help you a lot.
There’s usually lots of oldish disstons and s&j saws you can get for £10 or under including postsage28 March 2018 at 9:16 am #511824I found that if you work from one side for the whole cut,with it straight up on the vise,it can take for ever to rip some woods down.
Paul show his method of starting off with the wood straight,just to cut an inch or so square with the line,then he drops his hand sawing to the line for say 10 strokes then turns the wood round and does the same.
If you can angle the wood so that your not having to drop your hand so much this method is really quick,because your not sawing flat across the whole width.28 March 2018 at 8:56 am #511819Skewing the plane basically mean planing diagonally to the direction of the grain,so corner to corner.
Are you using a scrub plane or does your plane blade have a radius on its edge.
6 March 2018 at 7:42 am #491061silly question it may seem,but is the wood held solid and firm when cutting it,i sharpened my first saw with pauls progressive meh=theod and found the exact same issues as you have,but found out that my vice was moving causing the wood to grab the saw teeth,once i secured the vice properly these issues went away
19 February 2018 at 2:33 pm #477241Or plug the metal peg with wood then screw the front of the tote into that plug
19 February 2018 at 2:32 pm #477240ahh I see what you mean now,could you plug the hole in the tote with wood,then drill a new hole the right size for a snug fit,maybe
19 February 2018 at 2:00 pm #477211Paul’s restoring a hand plane video will show you how to rectify this if it’s just a case of the tote shrinking.
Basically the threaded rod is too long for the tote now and won’t cinch down right on the tote.
I’ve followed Paul’s fix and it worked wonderfully,basically just shorten the the threaded rod on one end by a 1’mm,you can file it or saw it off.One way to check to see if it is indeed caused by the tote shrinking is to take the tote off,and screw the threaded rod only into the sole and see if it wobbles without the tote in place,if it does then the threads have worn.
All the best
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