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Hi
I’ve had a look at the United States Dept of Labour OHS ‘Substance data sheet for occupational exposure to lead’. It seems that ingestion of lead through airbourne dust is their main concern. I would post a link to it, but it also has a list of the effects of lead poisoning that would not reduce anxiety.
Unlike some other chemicals lead is not absorbed through the skin. Its only ingestion of flakes and breathing dust to worry about. I believe the Romans also had a tough time as they inadvertedly drank lead tea because their water pipes where all made of lead.
Considering the DoL info, I would not be too concerned about the paint/japanning on my own tools, just cautious with stripping paint or loose paint surfaces. Obviously, toys or cots/cribs finished with a lead paint are a bad idea, as everything ends up in a childs mouth. But I doubt that you would have the same problem with your tools.
Hi.
Seems like the gap is generally accepted as an issue, which I agree with.
I would, like Larry fix to structure, like the blockwork.
I would use a PAR timber spacer the depth of the cavity and cladding, cut out of the cladding the exact size of the spacer, fix the spacer to the blockwork with countersunk fittings. Then plane the surface flush with the wall and fit the french cleat to that.
If the back of the shelf is open, the spacer just needs to have an equal or smaller size as the cleat and you wont see it at all.Hi Glenn
I have felled trees for work, bought timber directly from the mill, and have a friend who runs a mill where he dries the timber and produces laminated and nailed products. There are also mobile mills where I used to live that pay the tree owners in a portion of raw lumber.
Milling is dangerous heavy work, so you need the lifting equipment, tools, and an expert eye to get quality results safely. Also note that airbourne sawdust is explosive.
If I was in your position I would see if there is anyone with the necessary skills within the community who is prepared to work with you on a product split basis on your machinery. That way you will be gaining local knowledge and expertise at the expense of a good portion of timber. A good written agreement with a timelimit may be all that it takes to get you going. Alternatively there might be previous staff who can assist.
These might be extreme ideas, but your sawmill is a community assest, and they should help you get it going if they expect to benefit from it.
Good luckHi Igor
I would only file the silver if there was an issue. I would cut the groves for the inlay perfectly after the surface has been finalised. You can cut then place the hard inlay into the groove without gluing it, and cut the groves deeper if it sticks out. Only glue when everything sits perfectly. Your tooling is suited to wood so I would work the wood not the metal. Look at the way Paul places an inlay in the winding sticks video.
Good luck.Hi Jonathan
Have you watched Paul’s saw sharpening videos. They will be helpful in settling the rip/cross cut debate. Essentially, the task that you intend to use the saw for is likely to make the decision for you.
I dont know what the more experienced guys would say, but I would expect any saw with a 12 or 14 TPI to be used for joinery cuts, and to be sharpened to rip. Its likely that a saw with teeth this small would be a back saw of sorts.
I would expect a crosscut saw to be a panel saw, with teeth from 10 to about 7tpi, thereafter larger toothsizes would be rip for length cuts. Unless the saw is captive in a mitre box, the back of the backsaw might be a pain and prevent deeper cuts across a board.
Veritas make premium saws that should be pretty good out the box.
I dont know how specialised your needs are, but I would buy a cheaper long crosscut panel saw and a rip backsaw. With your little dovetail saw, these should do just about everything you want. I hope that this helps.Thats a really nice plane. I’m glad its doing so well for you. Its Full of character, with a destinctive design. Hazarding a guess (and I’m not an expert), using the intricate detailing, and the effort that was put in to repairing the cap iron as a guage. I would guess that it was an expensive plane new, good enough for somone who works with wood to have had it repaired well by someone else who was good at welding.
Have you had a look at the info posted online by Virgina Toolworks? For intetest’s sake they might have something to give you a clue to when it was made.Hi Curtis and Skeeball
You are both absolutely right.
I bought 2 sweetheart spokeshaves and a wooden spokeshave for the equivilent of 25 dollars. I bought a one with the red cap iron for about the same for a friend.
The older spokeshaves without the red cap are fiely cast, using little metal, very good well used tools. The newer one was rough, heavy and unused. It needed quite a bit of fettling to get it going properly.
If I were to repeated the exercise, I would buy a black and grey spoke shave for my friend. Simply because its too dificult to tell a genuine new Stanley (with the red cap) from a knock of online. I’ll often pay much more for a tool at a market because I have it in hand before buying.
That said, if you need the tool immediatly, its well worth paying for a new tool from a reliable source.
In short I would get a complete grey and black one online if I had time, and a new one if I didn’t.
Good luck.
Hi Joris
Breaking up old furniture seems like a lot of work to me.
I would suggest the local builders salvage yard where you could find old doors and roofing timber. Check your local classifieds as there are often people selling old floor boards, etc. If you are working with reclaimed timber, especially from the builders yard, its usually a good idea to run a stud finder or a metal detector over the wood so that you dont hit any nails with your tools.
Good luck!
Hi Ed
I like @alan141 s suggestion to add a riser box bellow your chest. There is no need to change now.
I’ve read a bit about the Seaton tool chest that @etmo posted. I think its obscenely beautifully made. An artwork in itself. Its also really inflexible. Its filled with the very best and most beautiful tools. My tools alone couldn’t compete. Niether do I have a full set of anything.
Chris Schwarz has a till-by-till description of his own single tool chest on his blog which could be useful if you need and keep the same tools as him.I have most of my tools in a chest with one till and lots of boxes under the till. The boxes keep blade sets or similar tools together. The tools/boxes are squeezed in wherever they fit, but always in the same place. I think the joiners box that you made allows better access and would save me unpacking the whole chest to get at one spare coping saw blade.
Some people seem to keep the tools they use most closest at hand in the top till. But a friend of mine works really well with his tools grouped by type. All his chisels are together, and all saws, all planes, all squares, all meassuring devices are grouped. His are on open shelves, closest to where he uses them. Drawers and tills could be used similarly.
Everyone seems to store and arrange their tools differently depending on what works for them. I’m motivated by the thought that if I cant find a tool, I might as well not have it.
@katzhuu
Hi Jukka
I really like that you posted photos of work that was not perfect, but improving. We always see everyone’s perfect work posted proudly everywhere. Without physical classmates around, its nice to be reminded that others also have to practice to get things right.
Good luck with your workbench.Hi
‘Meranti’ is used generically in South Africa to refer to a few species of hardwood from Indonesia, the Philippinnes, and Malaysia. It’s the predominant hardwood available at big box stores. It generally has an interlocked grain and machines well, so it is used extensively for moulded skirtings and cheap hardwood doors.
The colour variation may be explained by the use of a few different meranti species in one door.
In any case, you should get some good use out of it.
Hi Doug
I don’t think anyone has mentioned that you will need a cross-cut sharpened hand saw NOT the rip saw that you mention for cutting plywood.
When cutting ply you will be cutting with the grain and across the grain over the different layers (and glue). An saw with large rip pattern teeth will not do this well. Its simply not suited to the task without slicing teeth. Plywood skews modern handsaw requirements heavily towards crosscut toothing. You will note that crosscut panel saws with crosscut teeth or very fine rip pattern teeth dominate big-box store shelves these days. With the availability of electric saws to ripcut timber, most new hand saws are used to cross cut timber or cut ply, and sold by the makers with tooth patterns best suited for this purpose (i.e. crosscut or fine rip).
If you are not doing large amounts of ply, you probably dont need to upgrade your table saw. Just get a long resharpenable crosscut panel saw. For cutting ply I use either a crosscut panel saw or a handheld circular skil saw depending on quantity. Both work equally well.
Hi Paul
As usual Larry’s advice on the other thread is really good, with documents and everything.
As I understand it, glass-wool will only reduce the resonance withing the room (i.e. the time that the sound bounces around the room). I dont think it will reduce room-to-room transmission all that well as it is low mass. Also some types of glass-wool have fibres that are really bad for your lungs. If you are committed enough to add to the basement, it’s worth mentioning that you can get stud/partion wall and ceiling systems that are rated by the manufacturers for sound-drop.
I like Ed’s sugestion of a pre-emptive screaming plunge router.
But seriously.
It might be useful to put your workbench feet onto rubber pads to help isolate the sound from the building structure. If the bench touches the wall move it a little bit away from it. That way the sound travels less effectively into and through the building structure. Think of the rubber underfloors that are sometimes used to stop sounds like lady’s heels from travelling from floor to floor through the floor in high-end apartments.The only thing that deadens sound is mass. But sharp sounds like lady’s heels travel well through the structure if it transfers well into that structure. Any added wall finish is only likely to improve the quality of the sound in the room and be an unnecessary expense especially if your bench is not isolated.
You could dull the sound further by not using a claw hammer on a steel backed chisel, or using a rubber mallet instead of a wooden one on wood/plastic backed chisels
Also make sure any ducts, vents, or conduits between the basement and your neighbours are closed. As voids allow for sound to pass through.
Hi
For dealing with humidity, Larry has a good point on the fridge bulb. Some of the guys here use car breaklights on a 12v battery. it must be a bulb that gets hot with a filament or it won’t work. Ive seen some machinists precision tools kept submerged in oil too.
I have a carpenter’s chest with a disposable moisture absorber inside which seems to work. I have another large ventilated cupboard for general tools, the tools in there seem to have a settlement of salts/moisture downward onto the top surface which rusts.My choice would be for a large sealed cupboard, or a big carpenters chest like the one @dionysios has above (which would also be too heavy to carry away during the night).
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