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2 November 2023 at 9:08 pm #817957
You can make a jig that the plane edge rides on, but not the blade, to make all boards have identical widths. Like this, but tall: https://paulsellers.com/2018/08/thickness-planing-is-great-hand-planing-skill/
You’ll have to make sure this is perfectly parallel, though, which is critical. Any error here would be a gap.
The way I’d do it is to glue everything in pairs, then it all together at the end like how you described.
2 November 2023 at 9:04 pm #817956(double post, sorry, deleted, see below)
- This reply was modified 5 months, 3 weeks ago by Roberto Fischer.
- This reply was modified 5 months, 3 weeks ago by Roberto Fischer.
20 October 2023 at 6:12 pm #816796From the photos it does look like the tails are too thin for the pins (and vice versa), as if you had cut on the wrong side of the line after transferring the tails onto the pin board.
22 May 2023 at 1:39 am #802084I too have wondered about this at one point. Below is all speculation:
I imagine it’s because the tenons are small and if they contract, it might not be enough to crack, either because the wood itself can sustain it, or the glue is a little bit flexible and can move a tiny bit.
As an aside, another related curiosity:
How do guitar backs not always crack? I’ve seen them crack below 30% humidity, but why is everything else pretty much ok? The back is very wide and very thin, and is glued to braces running across the grain. Logic tells me this is a terrible idea and it should always crack a lot given enough time… But it doesn’t nearly that much, apparently.
Does wood really only crack like that under extreme conditions, and otherwise it’s fine?
13 November 2021 at 1:39 pm #736519On his drawers, he always makes a groove on 3 sides and slides the bottom in (the back leaves the groove open). The bottom can be either plywood or solid wood (chamfered/rebated on the sides) with a few nails through the back panel, securing it from sliding out.
I think he used the method Joost described for smaller boxes with thinner sides, so they don’t become too fragile, too thin where the groove is.
9 October 2021 at 9:01 pm #731986(not that I could use a vise in this case, but it would be helpful for smaller drawers I’ve done before)
9 October 2021 at 8:57 pm #731985Good suggestions, thank you all.
This last one, I’ve seen before. How could I have forgotten? That will be the first one I’ll try. Not having the vise flush with the apron is a disadvantage in this case, although an advantage in others, but I should be able to remedy with a piece as thick as my jaw liner as a shim.
Thanks again.
7 October 2021 at 1:51 am #731640I thought of that but couldn’t figure out how I’d plane so high, almost my height. I guess I’d have to step on a stool?
29 July 2021 at 2:50 am #722752Thank you all for the replies. I guess flat surface it is. I wanted to avoid acquiring such piece as I don’t know what else I’d use it for and I don’t want to store more junk. I’ll figure it out.
Fritz, I am aware of how to plane correctly and how to edge joint boards. The hump in the middle is not the only symptom I’ve described: Not being able to plane parallel lines (plane will not cut down to the line in the middle) and having my wooden jointer, which I flattened with my #5, do the exact opposite (leaves a hollow). Resting the plane on a guaranteed flat surface and using a feeler gauge is not the only way to diagnose it.
4 July 2021 at 2:50 pm #719739This shouldn’t alter the fitting of the joint. You will though have the knife line appear in the final piece or having to plane it off afterwards.
What I do is skip the pencil line across the board, laying out the tails with long pencil lines. Then, I do the knife wall (with a cutting gauge) cross the board around the tails on the outside face and across the whole board on the inside face. I’ve previously laid out the pencil line a bit off from where the knife wall ended up being and it didn’t help, so I just don’t nowadays.
26 June 2021 at 7:37 pm #718726Good information, thank you.
From what I’ve read before, is waxed shellac fine as the only type of finish but not fine as a primer for another water borne finish? Are there other differences? For french polish, which ones is more appropriate?
23 May 2021 at 6:58 pm #714376You need a cover that is transparent to sound waves, like a cloth, but that still keeps the mineral wool locked in so you don’t breathe it.
Since you are considering installing some insulation, you could think of something like putting 2×2 framing with mineral wool between and then staple white curtain panels on the framing. This should have the insulating effect you want and make it sound dampening too.
18 May 2021 at 2:37 pm #713726I’d find a dermatologist. You could have dermatitis, eczema, who knows. In general, they might just recommend moisturizing like Darren said, but if it’s bad enough, they might ask you to do something else, like steroid cream + cotton gloves.
I have eczema which mostly affects the back of my hand and my finger tips. I solved it by moving to a more humid region. Not that I moved with the intent to cure it, but it did get 10x better.
7 March 2021 at 2:33 pm #704245I wonder why we usually don’t see these winding sticks more. They do appear like too much fluff and no net benefit over the simpler ones. I can’t say that I’ve tried them though.
20 February 2021 at 7:11 pm #702055What about a design similar to a trestle table? You pretty much have two leg frames joined by wide middle beams that are right in the middle, one above the other.
The problem I see with your design is that there’s very little preventing the legs from rocking side to side.
One thing you haven’t mentioned is what this workbench will need to withstand.
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