@rroselavy
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I have tried Camellia oil (recommended by Lie Nielsen), but I have found that it tends to bead up after wiping the tool down. If I do not use the tool for a while, I find the beads of oil become sticky like sap. Not recommended.
Lately I have been using CRC 3-36 Lubricant after I read an article in one of the woodworking magazines. It wipes on without beading, and seems to do a great job. I use it on my bandsaw table as well. Not cheap at US$17 for a 16oz bottle, but it lasts a long time and is good for long term storage.
Hope that helps.
I had a Worksharp sharpening system early on that I would not recommend. You sharpen (or flatten) on the top or bottom of a small 6″ abrasive disk, so the outer part of the wheel will grind (and wear) a bit faster than the inner part. You also do not evenly wear the entire abrasive disk while using the chisel port below, and sliding chisels up and down the chisel port ramp always seemed to add some fine scratches to chisel backs. There was a piece of tape there to help prevent that, but some swarf inevitably found its way in between. The cost of consumables (sand paper disks) really added up after a while. I found the whole thing to be a bit of a contraption, but it was a lot quieter than using a dry grinding wheel.
Eventually I wanted a method that did not involve electrons, so I bought some diamond plates and was quite happy with Paul’s method. If I have to correct some tricky geometry, I might use a roller guide, but otherwise go freehand.
Next time I have to flatten some chisel backs, or remove material fast, I would consider purchasing a really rough diamond plate, like a DMT 8″ 2X Diamond Stone.
Yes, I see from your photo the orientation. I just thought the long tenon you had might best be split into two shorter (wedged) tenons. That way, the long grain of the side/front is not as compromised, and it will be easier to cut shorter mortises since you can do it along the grain as normal instead of across the grain like you are.
Nevertheless, it seems as if you have already committed yourself. 😉
Good luck!
I do not quite understand your construction, but it does not look dissimilar to how a shelf would need to join to the side of a bookcase.
Usually there would be a housing dado to receive the entire width of the cross-member. If tenons are desired for extra strength, I have usually seen them cut as square tenons that are spaced apart and wedged.
Here is an example from The Carpentry Way Blog
[quote quote=129792]I make my own hide glue.[/quote]
I first envisioned you boiling animal hides, bones and connective tissues to make your own glue, but I now suspect that you heat up pre-made (ground) hide glue in a pot before use. 😉
I have used PVA, White “Elmer’s” Glue, and Titebond’s “liquid” version of hide glue. The liquid hide glue is less viscous than PVA, so it runs a bit more when I get squeeze-out. Otherwise, I like working with it, especially how it cleans up and how it is a bit more forgiving. Heck, I even like how it smells.
It is a bookbinder’s plough plane. Compare to this Sandusky model:
Although it would be interesting to see if and how Paul avoids modern sheet goods when constructing kitchen base cabinets, I would rather see Paul build a free-standing cabinet like a sideboard or server before the conventional kitchen cabinet.
[quote quote=132038]Has anybody heard of ICS Cutting Tools in the US? They are in Casco, Wisconsin and make saw sharpening files and more.[/quote]
Interesting. I wonder what the “Black Oxide Finish” option does for the file. Make the file harder? Show wear?
I may contact them to find out.
In case it helps, Paul talks in more detail about his Tool Cupboard in this blog post:
You Asked About My Tool Cupboards
Sorry to discover this thread late Bill.
They sell what you are looking for at Philly Planes.
I hope that helps!
-Scott
Hmm..I like old tools.
For micro-adjusting, you could simply place a business card or some other thin shim under the plane base when you set your depth, then remove the card before routing.
Based on the condition and grind, I would agree that they are older “Splitproof” makes from before IRWIN-Marples. Should be Sheffield steel.
Although I agree with Salko that this is not the end-all in chisels, they may serve you just fine at little risk. Make sure the bottoms of the blades are not bunged up. Perhaps you have access to more pictures. Several of them appear to have decent (side) bevel-edge grinding, which may make those more useful for dovetailing. If they do not work out, I would just place them in your house-hold tool box and treat them as beaters. There is a place for that.
Alternatively, you could pick up a set of four Narex “Classic Bevel-Edge Chisels” for about $45. They have decent steel, and come well recommended as a starter set.
More info from Ray Gardiner courtesy of “The Porch”:
Does the back saw have split-nuts to secure the handle? That may assist in dating the saw.