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5 August 2016 at 3:45 am #139123
That’s because your sawing isn’t parallel with the work so angle your saw slightly in the opposite direction and keep doing that till you get it right.
3 August 2016 at 9:41 am #139031I’m surprised you haven’t yet tried this simple yet effective technique; use an erasure. It really works, planing also works. When you scribble on timber take the light approach you don’t need to see it a mile away. When Paul makes a mark he uses it mostly for illustration purposes, that is for your benefit, however on occasion you will see him making a light mark. Also when you want plane pencil or crayon marks away which are far easier to remove crayon than pencil you set your plane to take off 1/1000th and only where your marks are.
Hope this helps.
14 July 2016 at 3:32 am #138498The only way I know of to dampening noise when chopping is to use a rubber mallet, I’ve never tried the one Paul uses but I like to use one used for panel beating. It has a soft and hard faces, it leaves no marks on timber so it’s good for assembly, a little heavy I think but if your working late into the night that would be my option
18 June 2016 at 9:30 pm #137948Either it is bad steel or needs tempering, usually if it is bad as sometimes can be the case in irons grinding away a mm is sufficient but if it needs tempering which I’m more inclined to think that is your problem then temper it or buy a new iron. If the the steel is O1 then the tempering has only been done a 1/2″ to 3/4″ from the tip as all blades of old have been done but if it’s a modern A2 steel then the entire steel has been hardened and will not need tempering however then I would say it is only bad steel that needs to be grinded away, just be careful though you don’t take the temper out of it.
16 June 2016 at 6:43 pm #137888Great find Matt, the veritas plow plane and rebate plane however different are actually based on the Record. I thought I’d add that in since I just put one away. btw send us the link to your blog.
11 June 2016 at 9:14 pm #137767Getting that perfect workbench is a never ending struggle, I think as your experience grows and the work that you do will dictate what type of bench and size you will need. I think no one can ever advise you on what type of bench you need and I know you cannot purchase the ideal bench in any woodworking store and the benches I have seen are flimsy over priced toys. Paul’s bench for me isn’t ideal, it wouldn’t work for me as I have one I use in my shop and have always been extremely frustrated with it. That’s me and Paul is Paul it works for him but not for me that’s the way the cookie crumbles. Find your own path and to do that you will have to gain some experience first.
31 May 2016 at 12:29 pm #137526lol the last picture didn’t open up, well it looks like a cove with a depth stop.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by Salko Safic.
27 May 2016 at 5:38 am #137473Yeah everything is ok just plotting along, you know I still haven’t made those moulding planes. I bought the timber but just cannot find the time I keep saying after work I’ll do it but comes 5:30 and I start cleaning up I just don’t have the energy the drive is there but the energy is depleted.
I suppose if you want to see how all the parts fits together meaning to check if your drawing is accurate which is the reason I got into it but as you said you measure each part of each other. I don’t know, it’s a good concept but many have taken it overboard thinking this is a must have, your woodworking experience will be so much simpler and I too fell for it but realised it’s nothing more than another marketing ploy to get you to believe it’s something you need when you actually don’t. You know what I mean that’s just that one more conveyor belt thing that Paul’s been talking about. At first I never understood it but now I’m starting to and infact I’m going to do a blog on the explanation of this conveyor belt. All these softwares are a deception Matt, can you imagine what would happen if all the power went out and no one could use computers and even mobile phones, there would be mayhem for a while. But think back when you were a kid we never had computers nor mobile phones what did we do then. I think we would be much better off and for the sole reason that we can’t control ourselves. We live on these damn machines and slave for it rather than it working for us. I’ll do a blog soon enough.
27 May 2016 at 3:29 am #137471Hey buddy how you doing. If you’ve read my earlier post on 3d modeling you would know I’ve been a huge advocate for it but, recently in the last couple of months I’ve been moving away from it. I no longer feel it is a necessity in the craft. I feel it’s more to show the clients what the finished product will look like rather than it being any kind of an aid to the woodworker.
I think I need to explain myself a bit here and clarify an important point, I don’t believe it does aid the hand tool woodworker, for machine based work it can as they are setup to do multiple exact replica cuts and joints and so forth. Even then it really isn’t necessary at all, you know I draw everything up in cad but all those measurements I draw up can ever be absolutely executed spot on to that in every part. We aren’t machines so we cannot think nor work like them and that’s why I feel that 3d modeling other than viewing the completed project cannot aid the worker. I also feel that sketchup really isn’t a sophisticated software but rather inventor professional if we are going to go down that road is but unfortunately the learning curve is huge and even though I started and now stopped learning it I will restart it again only really for the sake of having one more skill under my belt and besides you never know what the future holds. There are many jobs in engineering firms one could get by knowing inventor but not a single job out there for sketchup. I know Bob Lang is a huge fan of sketchup but it’s not for me.
19 May 2016 at 11:09 pm #137275In your case David it would but not considerably, what you have is what you use on standard 1″ stock what I have is generally used on 2″ stock or more yes then you would see a big difference. I’ve thought about it once what could I do to speed up the ripping process on long stock and the kerfing plane came to mind. The kerfing plane could bring down the material and aid in cutting straight, in theory this would work but I don’t have one to put it to the test.
19 May 2016 at 2:50 am #137263I have a 4.5 ppi saw that’s hooked, hard to start but in all honesty does not rip any faster. Don’t waste your time on it.
18 May 2016 at 11:49 pm #137254You can do it both way obviously, it is a lot easier on the body if you cut it down to rough length but on the other hand if you thickness it first then you cut it you know it will all be the same thickness. Good luck
2 May 2016 at 7:57 am #136846In my pinion both are equal in strength, edge glueing is just as strong as if dowels are placed in them but what people don’t realise that those that do use dowels and biscuits it’s sole purpose is to help with alignment and not strength. Do you plan on dancing on the top, I wouldn’t worry about about it but to give you a good indication of it’s strength I made a fold out table top 10 years ago out of 4 12″ wide boards and they were pine. This was a very a large coffee table that the top was made into two half. So both tops were hinged so you can lift it and place inside the table whatever you wanted for us it was where I placed all the dvd’s. Anyway my kids were small and I wanted something not to extravagant but sturdy as I knew they were going to climb on it and climb they did. It was that strong that it took my weight as well several times. Yes I was showing off to my wife but I also wanted to disprove those who believe that dowels add strength. I even jumped on it several times and not even a squeak
Ultimately the decision is yours but both work equally well.
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