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I have the same scraper. The first time sharpening mine, it wouldn’t cut butter. I’m no expert at this by any means but my opinion is that a small bur works better. Until I watched Paul’s video very closely I was putting way to much effort into trying to form the bur and it was probably rolling completely over like a curl. I could feel the darn bur with my finger but it wasn’t cutting the wood at all. Using a card scraper I started a DOE…. Design of Experiment. Changing the number of burnishing strokes and pressure applied to the burnishing tool. two key things I found… make sure you get a good sharp corner on the blade before you start burnishing, and lighten up on the burnishing. It takes practice to get your technique right but when you perfect it, you can cut any wood with it including soft woods.
Yes moving the frog forward will help but also, you need to get your sandpaper down to about 1000K or finer and then strop it. Question for you…. looking at the picture with the square on the soul… have you checked your square to make sure it is square? That’s a lot to be out and I would think there would be some visible damage. Keep working on it. Looks like a nice plane and you will be proud of it when you get it finished.
You can’t beat an old saw. I don’t know if its the material they are made of or the way they are made but they sharpen good and seem to last a lot longer. I have an older Pax that I really like. You are right about the finer toothed saws though. They are hard to sharpen and take special files. The Lynx that I have is vey fine toothed and I’m not sure I could sharpen it. Maybe with diamond files.
If cost is not an issue and you want a good saw… BadAx has some great saws. They are a bit heavy but they cut really nice. I tried one last time I was in Highland woodworking store and really liked it however, they are very expensive. I’m a bit more conservative with my money so I opted for the Lie Nielsen. I haven’t used the Veritas saw…. but I don’t like the looks of them… Not a good reason not to buy one but it is my opinion. I also have a Lynx. Its even more moderately priced and has worked very well for several years. If you can go to a store that has several brands, give them all a try.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/hand-saws.aspx
- This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Sandy.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Sandy.
Paul, You are correct, part of it is about collecting. I’ve bought a few new tools but most of what I have are from junk stores or flea markets. I found a Stanley 4 1/2 with serrated soul a while back. It looked like it had never been used. Got it for $8. I can imagine shipping puts a lot of tools out of reach in the land down under. If you know someone who does a lot of international travel you might piggyback a few tools in their luggage. I’ve done that across states here in the US. One of my friends brought a molding plane back form LA in his suitcase. Another brought a plow plane back from Ga in the saddlebag of his motorcycle.
I just did a search for “woodworking hand tools in Australia” and found a lot of resources. Check that out!
I was surprised that I didn’t have that much fettling to do. I spent a lot of extra time on my layout and sawing than normal because I figured there would more time finessing the joint if I didn’t.
I completed the first one. Now I am going to try something a bit different on the second one. The top piece just didn’t seem to match the rest of the stand. It looks a little unrefined as Paul would say. Picture to come!
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Here’s something I did because I had the same issue. I modified my template to be the exact size of my sliding dovetail. I can mark the dovetail and the pin from the same template insuring a match no mater what thickness my peg turns out to be. And the bonus is, I can use the template for final sizing of the dovetail slot. The all the fettling can be done on the Peg!…
After re-reading your post I see that I am talking about a different issue. But for anyone new… here is a good suggestion!
- This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Sandy.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Thank you Matt. The joint looks more complicated than it really is. That was actually the easiest feature to make. Gluing up the bearers and getting them formed was the challenge. Well, maybe more time consuming than challenging. I didn’t want to tie up my vice and only had one extra. So the glue up was one at a time. I’m going to try something different with the glass bearers on the next one. The top looks a little unrefined. And by the way…. where in the world did he get glasses with 1/4 inch dia stems? Even though Paul said to adjust for your glasses…. i didn’t. Better start listening to the master!
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