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15 March 2023 at 7:58 pm #794925
Birger,I was faced with the same issue when I made a version of an old post office (US post office) for my wife’s wool materials she uses in her weaving.
I wanted to have some symmetry for the various cubby holes but wanted the divides to be relatively thin (main vertical dividers are 15mm and horizontal dividers are 9.5 mm). I worried about the strength of the joints (like you) when two horizontal dividers were attached to the same vertical dividers, at the same location. I wanted to dado the corresponding horizontal dividers into the vertical dividers. Just doing a dado would make the vertical divider too narrow at the point of the joint. Therefore, in addition to the two opposition dados, I made narrow mortise and tenon joints (about 6 1/2mm square) extending from one side to the other. Also, rather than have the tenons meet at the same location in the vertical, I staggered one pair with another. This offset preserved the integrity of the opposing dados on the vertical pieces.
I try to illustrate my discussion with several photographs.
Photo 1 shows the completed project.
Photo 2 shows it filled with the wife’s wool materials
Photo 3 shows a pair of tenons on a horizontal divider. I can not show how the tenons are staggered between the opposing horizontal dividers.
Photo 4 shows a pair of opposing dividers in the respective dados.
If my description is not clear, please contact me and I will sketch up a drawing.
Harold Blair[attachment file=”Photo 1.JPG”]
[attachment file=”Photo 3.jpg”]
[attachment file=”Photo 4.jpg”]
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You must be logged in to view attached files.6 November 2022 at 9:31 pm #779343Hi Stan,
Several initial observations I am sure you know: 1. Make sure the cutting iron is very sharp, 2. cut the cross-grain edges first. 3. If possible take narrow depth cuts, progressing to the final depth.
Harold11 December 2019 at 6:06 pm #635532Ed,
I can’t figure out how to PM you so I will respond to your query here.“Ed, yes I only use Paul’s methods. As I get older (now 77) my hands can’t take all the sawing and planing needed to take rough lumber to finished product so I
now use a joiner, planer and table saw to make my initial sizing cuts. From then on everything is by hand.Yes, it definitely helps to sub divide the door with a rail.
When selecting the wood I try to pick the straightest grain possible.
Keep practicing, you will get better!
Good luck.
Harold “
11 December 2019 at 10:02 am #635427Ed,
Sorry, it has taken me so long to reply. We are on travel. The best suggestion I can make regarding doors not warping is to be sure the rails and stiles are not twisted. I use winding sticks for this. Paul has several videos on making and using winding sticks. If the rails and stiles are straight and the mortise and tenons are square the doors should be warp-free.Thanks to you others who have made kind remarks about my furniture. I was extremely fortunate to take a number of courses from Paul while he lived in Texas. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity to study under him! As I am sure all you know, using his tools and techniques is most rewarding.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Harold Blair.
4 December 2019 at 12:14 pm #633270Over the past 40 years, I have built a number of Shaker pieces (step-back cupboards, chest of drawers, etc) replicating the methods used by them. On all of them, I have used solid wood slats with tongue and grove or “shiplap” joints. These effectively allow for movement but also inhibit dust infiltration.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.24 April 2018 at 5:11 pm #532318Thanks guys,
I will give the Amazon tape a try. I tried to use the “carpet tape” from Lowes and it only works for awhile. It then fails…
Thanks again for the responses.
Harold
5 April 2018 at 9:06 pm #518704Larry,
Many thanks for the references. Dogging system was particularly interesting.
HB8 October 2017 at 2:23 pm #330755This is awesome! When working with heavily figured wood (tiger maple, etc.) this could be a huge advantage. Anyone have specifics on the best way to modify the chipbreakers?
Harold -
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