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Thank you all for your input. Its really a shame, but it seems as this crack was caused by delivering service. It feels really well made and i would have loved to try this plane on real wood. Compared to my record no5 this plane is so well machined and feels just great. I am really sad to send it back, but so it will be…
I was wondering the same question. I used window glass cleaner and also water as lubricant for my stones. water gives rise to rust on the stones (remaining abraded plane iron particles). I didnt notice this when using glass cleaner.
But the difference between automotive and window cleaner is mysterious to me also.Ed,
your way of describing the tool chest with drawers really wants one to tackle this as next project. I was a bit intimidated of cutting the dovetails, but after the joiners box I feel more confident I could actually try making it.Thanks for your thoughts and inspiration.
Hi Doc, I added my timber cutting list, as I bought my lumber here in Germany. Be aware thats in metric, it was pre planed spruce and it´s for the kind of bench that has only one benchtop and behind that a tool well. Also the width of the bearer was not wide enough, so you have to add approx. 1 1/2″ to that.
Regards,
Stefan
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hi Ed,
thanks for your thoughts on that issue. The way you describe it, makes the whole situation perfectly clear. So it actually would be an overkill having a frame and panel construction on a box without top trim.
I will try these things out to find the method which works best for me and eventually will share my results on that subject.Thanks again,
Stefan
Hi there,
thanks again for your input.
10 hours after moving the chest back to my basement shop, the lid is flat and perfectly closing again. I assume it just wants to stay there with me, being what it was supposed to be, a tool-storage.Chris Schwarz puts the lid trim not on to the endgrain, instead screws the battens on to the underside in elongated holes. Alternatively he writes about using clenched nails and glue. He also uses strap hinges which, I suppose, also resist the lid warping.
However, I will have to built a new box. Might use a quicker approach with rabbet edge jointing and nails instead of dovetailing, and try out the battens from underneath the lid. And after that one a piece with frame and panel lid. I´ m curious how they compare in means of warping, stability and efficacy of building.
Hi Matt,
thanks for your reply and input.
The floor is ok, it is the lid itself.I thought that going with hardwood for the lid trim might be better on forcing it to stay flat (this time I used pine).
This re-sawing idea sounds also good, but I´am not sure if I could remove the lid trim, which is glued and nailed, without doing too much damage.
I wonder how this was solved back in time, especially with moving this box around so often, inviting the wood to move again.I probably will be re-sawing the current lid and build a frame with a raised panel out of it, hoping for a more “stable flatness” .
Hello Red and Geoff,
thanks for your fast reply and help. So I can finally go on tomorrow…
Paul´s plans suppose the height of the divider 5 3/4″ so it would have been allright to stick to his numbers.
But now I could be sure.@ Geoff: So the No 7 has the same small tote as, say a No 4? I work with a stanley no 4 and hoped, that for such a long plane a full grip would be possible without modifieing the tote…good to know that
Thanks again.
Hey Joe,
at the moment I´m hand prepping the stock for the joiners toolbox from 1″ rough sawn pine boards. I am struggling with the correct order of procedure, especially because of laminating two boards together for my width of 13″. I tried planing to exact thickness from almost only one side, with heavy cupping/bowing as result after laminating. Then I tried thicknessing 1/8″ of the final thickness, equally from both sides this time, squaring face and edge, then laminate. After glue up I prepped to final thickness. Another try was prepping equally but leaving one face rough by the scrub, getting the opposite face fairly flat and edge straight before gluing up. now i got only the top left and I am still uncertain about the best, efficient way/ order, because its still feels inefficient somehow, but iam not sure why.
What I do know is, that I cut to width before final thickness, because this reduced the amount of cup/ bow i have been working to. Also, it was more ergonomic not to reach that deep over the benchtop, ´cause of the lesser width.Iam thankfull for any advise or link to this topic,
Stefan
- This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by steel.
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