Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
8 May 2020 at 1:19 am #660479
I find the site slow too. Videos play ok (the most important thing), but navigating around, especially the forum area, is normally slow.
22 July 2019 at 9:22 am #592302When I made my bench last year I did the exact same thing. Works well, all it lacks are some ‘teeth’ in the stop that grab the wood being planed. I’ve not found this to be a problem though.
11 July 2019 at 2:57 pm #589111My advice would be to use plywood for the caracasses, other than at the end of a run where the carcass will actually be visible. You’ll have plenty of practise at frame and panel when you do the doors!
22 May 2019 at 10:39 am #574279Toolstation sell the clamps Paul uses, and with my Toolstation being located inside a Wickes, I got a few 19x32mm sticks while I was there. These just take a small amount of planing to fit tightly into the clamps. For me there’s no need to fasten them in place, the fit is very snug and tight, and the sticks would be very hard to remove even if you wanted to.
30 August 2018 at 8:25 am #550761Buying the wood cut and planed to the right size will save you a lot of time. I think I probably spent around half of my build time in preparing the reclaimed wood – cutting, planing to size, removing cup and twist etc. In some ways it was good training – in other ways it was a frustrating as doing it without a bench is a bit awkward.
I think having everything ready to go (apart from a bit of surface planing) makes a lot of sense. £154 seems fair for that. It’s a small price to pay for something that will be so central and useful to you for so many years.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 7 months ago by Tom Davies.
29 August 2018 at 6:37 pm #550753I paid around £70 I think. Was a mixture of reclaimed wood and new wood. £154 for PAR redwood doesn’t sound too bad. Would everything be milled to size?
28 August 2018 at 8:46 am #550660The rest of the box was made with off the shelf redwood from a well known UK building supplier. The box has contact with masonry on the cill (of course!), the shape of the stone cill it sits on tapers away on the outside. The underside of the wooden cill is sealed with some oakum and putty. The box is held in place in its reveal by sliding wedges.
There is then the gap between the outer layer of brick, and the outer face of the window. I need to mortar this.
28 August 2018 at 8:41 am #550659I’ve stripped the sashes of all layers of paint, and need to decide if I can keep them or not. There is no rot in them, but the wood is quite rough and weathered on the outside – especially the bottom rail of the bottom sash, and the joints could be tighter. I think for now, I’ll re-use them, and maybe use some wood filler to help smooth the surface, and fill the gaps. However, I don’t want to do anything that accelerates failure. I’ll be re-painting with linseed oil paint, and I have some faith that this will help with the preservation.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by Tom Davies.
24 August 2018 at 1:51 pm #550536Tools used:
Cheap plastic handled handsaw
Spear and Jackson Tenon Saw
Marking gauge
Combination square
Aldi Chisels
Marking knife
Stanley 13-050 plough plane
Stanley 78 Rebate plane
#4 plane
#5 1/2 plane
Record router
Thorex hammer
Paul Sellers workbench!2 August 2018 at 8:40 am #549794Given that this site is oriented to hand tool work, I doubt there will be much enthusiasm for a power tool oriented bench, regardless of of well designed it is.
This looks like a decent enough bench for what it is.
20 July 2018 at 9:04 am #549526Good on you! Yes, that will take some time, and without a workbench to work from, it’s more tricky. But it will stand you in really good stead. Dimensioning timber for smaller projects in the future will seem like child’s play in comparison!
19 July 2018 at 7:19 pm #549512Rip saw, hand planes (4, 5.5/6, 7), straight edge, winding sticks, marking gauge, simple shooting board, workbench. Should be enough I’d have thought?
-
AuthorPosts