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25 March 2017 at 2:10 am #310475
Also, should the drawer and drawer rails be set in with the same reveal as the side and back aprons or should they be flush with the legs for the face of the drawer?
18 June 2016 at 3:26 am #137928So this is slow going, but we have had other stuff going on. I think i planed out the broken edges… at least to the point that flattening the top should hopefully remove the groove. What’s the thought on leg thickness for a 5′-6′ bench? Can a 2-1/4″ by 3-1/4″ leg take the wieght? I am down to 3-1/2″ by 2-1/2″ but they aren’t quite square. I’m nervous about taking too much material off.
5 June 2016 at 1:30 am #137600I struggled with swearing edges a lot… still do sometimes… i like the method that david charlesworth promotes… he uses a cambered iron, so the low point of the blade is in the center of the plane. if the edge is high on the left het takes a shaving with the center of the plane on the left. it will cut deeper on the high side. you can essentially mark the edge with a pencil where the high spots are. Then plane the edge while shifting the plane back and forth laterally as you plane to take out all of your pencil marks. Paul doesn’t prescribe to this method I don’t think. He uses a straight blade, though I would think that it would be slightly cambered just from slight back and forth motion when sharpening. I don’t use a radiuses blade like for a jack plane, I just try to sharpen a straight edge and allow it to rock side to side ever so slightly to allow a tiny bit of camber. Im no expert but if you google david charlesworth and cambered iron edge jointing there are lots of forums discussing this method. It is the most repeatable method for me. Try it. Keep it if you like it. Throw it away if you don’t. Good luck. BTW I hate stock prep 🙂 I like joinery a lot better.
4 June 2016 at 5:26 am #137594AGHHHHH… i broke the edges on the bench top pretty significantly before gluing the aprons on. Thats probably gonna drive me nuts if i don’t plane the edge down so i can get a nice glue line. frustrating
2 June 2016 at 3:52 am #137559Matt, thanks for the reply. Its the whole apron glued up that is twisted… so 1/8″ across 12″ over a 5′ glued up panel. unfortunately i cant move the piece…
I’m still considering planing it down thinner. I think I will finish cutting everything to length and building the leg assemblies. I can dry fit it and see if it affects the finished product and then plane it at that point. Maybe i will get lucky and it will work out. Thanks for the ideas. i may come back to planing out in the end.
1 June 2016 at 3:15 am #137539Thanks for the feedback matt. I have a jointer too, so i jointed and then planed the boards… took a while but it got it done…
I have the aprons and top laminated. They came out pretty good, though the laminations aren’t perfect. Hopefully they will hold.
I tried to mostly flatten the aprons and then ran them through the planer. I must have been a bit careless with one of the aprons because it must not have been truly flat. It has a bit of twist in it. it works out to be about 1/8″ on the two high corners (over 5′) when i lay it on top of the other flat apron. Is that too much twist? Im thinking that if my leg assemblies are true that this twist will work itself out during assembly. Thoughts? It would be a pain to flatten it and would decrease the thickness of the aprons. Am I off base thinking I can clamp this twist out?
13 September 2015 at 12:31 am #130359I just sharpened a blade for my jack plane which was working very nice for me. Now the cut feels rough and is coming out in 2-3 pieces when I take a thin shaving. I have resharpened 2 or 3 times with a homing guide and flatted the back again. Could an inconsistency or rough spot on the strop cause it?
11 September 2015 at 2:19 am #130297It would be like planing the two sides of a box (on the edge)… So im trying to get the left side piece identical to the right side piece. They won’t be glued together but i plane them as if they would to check for straightness.
10 September 2015 at 9:43 pm #130274It appears what I typed the first time didn’t go thru…
When prepping stock I usually rip to rough width on a bandsaw and then plane to width. I don’t owns table saw and am frankly scared to death of them. To get exactness my method has been to plane to a pencil gauge line. Then put the two pieces together as if I were bookmatch planing to edge joint. I then go thru iterations of planing until there is no discrepancy, then rotating the pieces and planing again to no discrepancy, then edge jointing till there is no light gap between them. This ensures the ends are all the same thickness and there is no bow in the middle. This seems to be very time consuming and I’m wondering what tricks there are to get accuracy more quickly?
5 August 2015 at 3:53 am #129061I am almost finished with my corner shelf but have no idea how to hang it in a corner… Thoughts? Hide the screws into studs or wall anchors behind the floating shelf?
3 April 2015 at 1:53 am #126211Thanks Frank… I am only flattening the last half inch but it’s still taking forever. I am doing it by hand, but I have a drum sanding attachment I could try in my electric hand drill. Im not sure how well it will work but will definitely be quicker. I don’t have a bench grinder… I might try the drum sander and see if I can take out the bulik of the material with that and then go back to hand methods for flattening. It appears that a hollow is much easier to contend with than a belly.
8 March 2015 at 1:57 am #125341I tried only putting the plate into the back 1/4″ but it’s still skewed to the back. Anybody have any other ideas?
28 February 2015 at 3:14 am #125150I have been talking to dominic and he suggested trying to not seat the plate as deep. I tried that but it didn’t correct the problem. I am beginning to wonder if it is a problem with my handle or saw back. The plate from him was fine in quality. Not sure where to turn. I may throw in the towel and try a dovetail saw build with one of his backs and dovetail plates that I got and see if I have better luck. That might confirm if there is a problem with the back. I was hoping someone could look at one of their backsaws to see if it looked like the plate was laying on one side of the spine like in my picture, or if it was centered in the spine, even though it was only in the spine a 1/4″.
24 December 2014 at 3:22 pm #122628Feel free to steal 🙂
I am wondering though, I used A LOT of sandpaper for shaping because my four in hand rasp wouldn’t fit in all the crevices. How would you more experienced hand tool guys have shaped the handles and the hammer more efficiently?
Also I laminated the square out of three layers. Would some sort of double half lap have been better than laminating 6 pieces? I had to do a lot of trimming after laminating to get everything relatively “square”
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