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Hi,
Not sure what’s going on, but I can’t see my own reply.
Be sure to check out https://meubelrestauratieshop.nl/contents/nl/d4_politoeren.htmlWesley
Hi,
There’s several projects. Here’s one: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/make-table-project-info/make-table-episode-6/
Wesley
Hi Mark,
My first reaction would be not to overthink this. All you’re doing is fixing scrap leather to a block of wood. I would say any tape would do just fineI don’t want to use glues because that’s a little too permanent. I’m in the UK
Trust me. You won’t be using that leather for anything else after you’ve used it as a strop.
Wesley
In the third video of the picture frame series Paul explains you can also glue 2 pieces of wood on top of each other. If one piece is 1/2″ thicker and 1/2″ narrower than the other you create a rebate that way.
Then there’s the Carved Mirror Frame project, which uses staggered mortise and tenon joints to hide the rebate. Maybe not the most suitable option if you have to make several.
Wesley
Hi,
Another option is to glue a thin piece of wood on both cheeks of your tenon, effectively “fattening” your tenon. Then plane the cheeks with the router plane until you get a tight fit.
Got this tip from Paul himself when I took 9-day course in Wales.
Good luck.
W.
I haven’t tried it myself, but I like this approach: https://youtu.be/hrwBmzmknwU
He uses bolts and then plugs up the holes without glueing, so you can take it apart later.
Wesley
An easy way to fill the pores is to apply the BLO and then sand. The pores will fill up with the mixture of wood dust and oil. When you wipe off the oil do so across the grain, so that the “sludge” will stay in the pores.
I’ve done this on several oak picture frames and it works quite well. Just be careful to keep everything clean. You don’t want dust from other wood species or water (I used a damp cloth before sanding) to creep in there and colour the wood in the pores.
Wesley
Great post (and frame). Thanks for sharing!
A friend of mine has asked to make him a frame for a huge poster. Even though the poster isn’t nearly as heavy as your mirror, I wasn’t sure about how to clamp the thing together.
Just a question: why didn’t you use the clamps when glueing up? It seems like a lot of trouble to make those extra “Pinterest blocks” and then not use them.
Wesley
Hi Mathew,
The advice given by the other members is spot on. As Ed pointed out clamp the piece to your workbench instead of in your vise. When I made my first mortises I used a workmate and it took me a while to figure out that the workmate deflects a lot of the energy from the hammer blows. The workmate was shaking and produced a lot of noise, but the chisel didn’t cut deeply into the wood at all.
When I figured that out I put the piece on the floor and finished the mortises that way.
Wesley
I agree, that frame looks absolutely gorgeous. Beautiful picture too.
Never heard of an inlay scraper before to be honest but should really get one some day. I used an old pair of t+g planes like Paul demonstrates in the picture frame videos, but that took a lot of cleanup as I kept tearing the grain on the grooves.
Wesley
Make sure you’re not “rolling the burr” onto the back of the blade. This can happen if your angle is too steep when stropping the blade. The blade will feel sharp, but the plane will only cut at the beginning of the board. Basically the burr (sharp edge) is on the back of the blade and therefore making no contact with the wood.
I’m probably not making any sense to you. Luckily Paul explained this in one of his Q&A videos on Youtube. Don’t remember which one, sorry.
Good luck.
Wesley
Hi Antony,
I’ve made several picture frames and oddly enough I find the splines to be the most challenging part. Did you watch the picture frames series on this site? If not I strongly suggest that you do.
My tips:
1 – use a saw with a wider kerf to make the slots. It’s easier to make thicker splines and also thicker splines don’t break as easily
2- put a small bevel (Paul calls it a leading edge) to your splines. Again, the picture frame video series will explain this better than I can.
3 – to get the splines to the correct thickness I glue it (double-side tape) another block of wood, put my plane upside down in the vice and then run the spline over the plane blade until it’s the right thickness. this will take longer but at least I get predictable results this way.
4 – take a scrap piece of wood and saw a groove in it using the saw you intend to use for making the slots (see step #1). Use this groove to test your spline thickness.
Good luck!
Wesley
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