1. Darren,
      Personally I don’t round the corners on this scraper.

      In my work, I tend to keep the No: 80 scraper for heavier cuts. Thinner scraper shavings are best done with a card scraper where you can directly control the shaving with hand pressure.

      With a No: 80, if you tension the central screw about 1 – 1 1/2 turns, you will put a tension bend in the blade which will also raise the corners of the blade slightly off the work so that it just cuts on the central portion. But there’s nothing to prevent you dubbing the corners slightly if they are troublesome.

      Don’t forget to slacken the screw when the tool is not in use.

      Good luck….

  1. Just a thought. Since, as YrHenSaer says, the corners of the blade in a #80 should not actually touch the wood much if at all once it is tensioned, the tracks you mention seem to me to be a bit mysterious. Where could they come from? I wonder whether your blade might sit in the plane at a bit of an angle so that one or the other corner scrapes. Or perhaps there is a nick in the blade, or perhaps in the body of the plane, which causes a track. I have a plane (though not an 80) with just a bit of damage around the mouth that leave a track. I have also sometimes had trouble with bits of wood getting stuck between the body of the plane (again, because of something being a bit off around the mouth) and the wood. This can cause a track, especially in softer woods.

  2. Hi Everyones,

    To obtain this good outside angle effect on the legs, what is the cut angle of the taper ? Do you add 3 or 4 degrees to the angle of the rail (81 degrees on Paul plans) ?

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