25 Comments

  1. Thanks Paul. Why are you having only one side of the housing dado be dovetailed and the other side just perpendicular? Is there any reason not to have both sides of the housing dado be dovetailed?

    1. Hi,

      Paul says:
      When you suspend a shelf between two fixed points this way, you only need to do the sliding dovetail to one side because the opposite housing dado and dovetail bring everything parallel thus making the whole process easier.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

      1. Thanks Paul, Izzy, for the follow up. I have a few follow up questions on sliding dovetails just to expand my understanding of them.

        1. If I were to make a bookcase with 1″ thick shelves, would you use a sliding dovetail that is beveled on both sides? Books are heavier than spices and I thought that might warrant the bevel on both sides.

        2. I noticed on this project that there was a 1/8″ width difference front to back for the sliding dovetail. On a standard bookshelf width, would you also taper it 1/8′ (assuming I have 1″ thick shelving”? At what point do you increase the front to back taper as a general guideline?

        1. Hi,

          I passed your questions on to Paul and he said:
          No, I wouldn’t use a double sliding dovetail if both ends are indeed held with sliding dovetails. It’s much easier to make the single sided dovetail.
          You can actually put any amount of taper on there but the wider the shelf, the thicker the material in my view would be better with a steeper angle. And there is no guideline.

          Kind Regards,
          Izzy

  2. Shelves in housing are normally parallel, anchored at one point only to allow for expansion.

    Half-dovetailed housings are a ‘refinement’ on that process that adds a little extra strength to the union of the shelf and side. A single straight edge on the shelf and the side allows them to be aligned so that they are all at right-angles when assembled – not easily done with a sloping dovetail section on both sides.

    That’s my understanding…… all will, no doubt, become clear.

  3. Good evening all,

    I was hoping you could answer a question or two. What type of wood is Paul using on this project and who is the musician playing at the end, it’s rather soothing. Thank you for all you are doing.

    Stay safe, Steven

    1. Hi Steven,

      Paul says:
      We have no way of confirming this because the wood was waste wood. I believe it is a hardwood called Merranti.

      The music is Green Green Garden by Chris Haugen.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  4. At 17m 36s Paul uses a block of wood with a 1 in 7 angle to make sure the dovetail is slanted accordingly. Trouble is, I’m not sure if my dovetail is 1 in 7 (I followed one of Paul’s videos when making it sometime in the past).

    Could I just use a protractor or my sliding bevel to measure my dovetail angle and transfer that to a piece of wood?

    That angled cut looks important so I’d like to get it right.

  5. Paul- As always you are a master. I am watching as you sneak in one technique upon the other, so subtly that I don’t know that it’s happening. Then all of a sudden i know something I never knew before and I can do something I never imagine I would. Bravo.

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