1. I don’t think the thickness of material would be an issue. But remember, the ladder frame has a taper to it making the top narrower than the bottom. So, if you add steps you will have to lessen that angle to avoid the ladder being too narrow at the top.

      Just a thought!

    2. I might suggest you consider increasing the length downward. In this manner, the top step width would remain as Paul designed it and the bottom would be wide, giving more stability. In reference to the thickness of material, you might consider increasing it by the ratio of length which you are adding. Watch your grain direction carefully!

      Just my thoughts. I’m building it as is.

  1. What a lovely project to work on. I seem to bet spending most of my time make furniture for other people, but I am going to find time to make myself a Paul Sellers step ladder. I do also like storyboard work all very interesting.

    Thank you Paul and team.

  2. Hello all,
    I have just added some information on the trestle hinges to the information page which should help.

    Re altering dimensions, it does very much depend on the amount. Paul said that if adding one additional step at the bottom, it would be fine without additional adjustments. If adding a few more steps than that, add 1/8″/3mm to the thickness of the sides. Within limits of course.

    Hope that helps you on your way.

  3. Once the project is finished, do you retain the story board? I could see the value of doing so, much like retaining jigs, but the large size of the board could be an issue in terms of efficiency of storage.

  4. The trestle hinges on EBay come from the UK and are 200mm, rather than 150mm. I’m not sure if the two extra inches will be a problem. I’m also wondering about the opening–I imagine different models have different opening angles. I’ll have to see how this project plays out before ordering.

    1. Hello Chris, the extra length isn’t an issue and Paul made adjustments to the opening angle to make it work, so as long as it doesn’t open further than the 38 degrees required, you would be fine. Hard to be certain though, you are right.
      Best, Phil

  5. If one isn’t able to use a storyboard would it be possible to have some guidance as to the angles involved when marking out the side rails. I know Paul indicated 70° for the bottom of the front side rails but also that the angle of the housing dado would be affected by approx. 1°. The actual widths of each step would also be useful.

        1. Hello Ian. Sorry for not replying earlier, but there is no straightforward alternative to getting consistent angles without storyboarding. You can use a roll of paper carefully fixed down if an actual board is not possible.
          Best, Phil

  6. There is a 1/4″ difference between the technical drawing (30 3/8″) and the video (30 5/8″) for the total span of the ladder legs when extended on the storyboard. I went with the span mentioned in the video, but I thought you might want to bring the two into agreement.

    1. Paul has a selection of pencils to choose from, as you can see from his well-stocked Pencil-Pot. Some are for sketching, some for wood. I use just the one to sketch, mark, and stir my tea.
      It depends on the colour and hardness of the woods and which pencil is sharp and within hands reach.
      Paul usually begins with a feint, hard, pencil; say Steadler 3H.
      If that doesn’t show-up, he moves on, through the grades, to Tesco 2B.
      When he needs lines to show on camera, he sometimes switches to black or red ballpoint Pen.
      Some professionals buy ‘Carpenters Pencils’. These can’t be sharpened in a regular sharpener though, they’re sharpened with a chisel. That’s why they’re for professionals only. There is a video tutorial on this.
      I use a Pop-O-Matic propelling pencil. But I’m a rebel. 😀

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