Tool Chest: Episode 6

Toolbox 6

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In this episode Paul shows how to plane and scrape the frame and also cut plywood for the bottom of the cabinet (he will show an alternate solid wood method in a later episode). He will also show assembly and gluing up.

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  1. Eddy Flynn on 21 August 2013 at 12:03 pm

    great video i can see these panels in so many other pieces i’m just drawing a floor standing bathroom cabinet and these are almost the same btw your doing a great job Phil

  2. JerryH on 21 August 2013 at 1:12 pm

    Enjoyed this video Paul, thank you.

  3. panzercpa on 21 August 2013 at 7:25 pm

    Paul stated that the #80
    was discussed in a previous class. Could you please tell me which one that was.

  4. david o'sullivan on 21 August 2013 at 11:57 pm

    mahogany is a wonderful wood to work with, my first time using it but don’t have enough to complete all aspects of this project .was thinking of using pine for the back and two sides ,would this look alright or is it a bad idea to join two different timbers like this ? i wont sleep to contented under the rose thinking about it .!! another great lesson by the way,thanks ,

    • Paul Sellers on 22 August 2013 at 8:02 pm

      The problem that often occurs between different woods on wide projects like this is that they often expand or contract at different rates and at different speeds. This then results in splits occurring.

      • david o'sullivan on 22 August 2013 at 10:24 pm

        will these splits definitely occur or can i take a chance. i could always make another carcass in time” as skills develop” to suit drawers and lid maybe ,unfortunately for me i have most of my tails and pins cut, ah! well you learn something new every day

    • Paul Sellers on 23 August 2013 at 2:21 am

      Re Will it definitely split? Probably not but don’t quote me….It will likely be just fine. Go ahead and enjoy the difference. I would.

  5. MartyBacke on 22 August 2013 at 4:45 am

    A couple questions if Paul gets a chance:

    1) Do you have concerns about using your nice planes and saws on plywood? I know it’s just wood, but there are a lot of glue lines that your tool has to go through. I know that if I use my powered jointer with plywood, the glue lines can actually mark the jointer knives (at least I’ve seen this with 3/4 plywood).

    2) I was surprised to see you flush all the surfaces before gluing the frame. Won’t the joints always go together a little differently every time you disassemble and reassemble the joints. So if you flush the joints, then take them apart to apply glue, and then apply your clamps, etc., might you have to flush the joints again after the glue has dried? Therefore, why not wait until you’ve glued everything together before flushing the joints?

    • Paul Sellers on 22 August 2013 at 7:59 pm

      Hello Marty:
      Good Q’s
      I cannot say I like the sound or feel of the plane on ply, but I don’t mind planing plywood particularly. It is a little hard on the plane, but I do it do minimally it makes little difference to my life.
      I flush the surfaces before hand to get them close or even exactly to flush. Actually, my joints remain exactly the same so, no, they don’t go together differently. I find it best to flush dry and then glue so that I can indeed work more with the grain if I need to change direction for some reason. This might seem like extra work, but we are talking two seconds and three shavings here.

    • rusty on 27 August 2013 at 9:53 pm

      I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for asking Marty and thanks for answering Paul.

  6. Scott on 22 August 2013 at 5:19 pm

    Does Paul plane the rails/stiles flush with each other BEFORE the glue-up in order to see the joints come together better? He does not really explain why…

    • Paul Sellers on 22 August 2013 at 8:00 pm

      It really does vary from time to time. Sometimes I do it when the glue has dried and sometimes I do it before as I said in my last response.

  7. md11toolman on 23 August 2013 at 3:40 pm

    Paul, I have seen a technique with plywood panels where polypropylene balls or “space balls” or used to minimize the effects of humidity and dryness over time with the plywood panel since it is loose in the frame. I live in a climate where I do get these significant changes in humidity over the seasons and was wondering what you thought of the technique?

    • Paul Sellers on 24 August 2013 at 9:47 am

      Good question Jeff and I hope you re well. It seems like years since the class in NY.
      You can use styrofoam balls picked off a block for this too or strips of styrofoam. What I do is rip a strip of 3/8″ by 3/8″ strips, cut them to 1 1/2″ long and gle them to both draw side and underside f the plywood. This stops any and all rattle and changes the sound of the drawer to no-rattle solidity. Plywood does have movement but really not too much so it works everywhere as far as I have seen.

      • md11toolman on 28 August 2013 at 3:27 pm

        Thanks Paul for the answer and I am doing well. Had a lot of fun with my barn wood project. Now its back to my bench here in Memphis!

  8. Ken on 26 August 2013 at 5:44 pm

    Thanks for this one, nice work

  9. Mark Armstrong on 26 August 2013 at 10:57 pm

    Top notch 🙂

  10. John Lepes on 27 August 2013 at 4:29 am

    Paul, do you use the same styrofoam strips on raised pannel doors? How snug should a raised panel be against the styrofoam?

    • Paul Sellers on 27 August 2013 at 8:57 pm

      I actually don’t generally use anything, working on the premise that for 400 years they got along without anything and I am fine with that. The bevels work to keep everything snug if they are fitted well

  11. John Lepes on 4 September 2013 at 11:44 pm


    Your comment regarding The Village Carpenter by Walter Rose sparked my curiosity so I went and bought a copy. What a joy to read! I highly recommend it to all who watch your Masterclass series. Now, when I watch your Masterclass videos, I see the Village Carpenter.

    I would be curious as to whether you have a reading list you care to share with your members.

    Thanks again.


  12. telek on 7 May 2015 at 5:54 pm

    This is just what I wanted (needed) to see… thanks!

  13. larryl49 on 6 January 2017 at 10:07 pm

    Hi Paul, great camera work and the details on grain and fibres, you using the 80 scraper was a joy to watch.
    Regards Larry,

  14. Matthew Moody on 8 July 2022 at 5:39 am

    Why do I have to log in every day? Can’t someone set the cookie expiration to a more reasonable period? It’s not like I have other people using my computer. Please be reasonable, this has gone on way too long.

    • deanbecker on 8 July 2022 at 5:32 pm

      I have to select remember me before I put in my password otherwise it doesn’t save me

    • Benoît Van Noten on 9 July 2022 at 9:07 am

      An idle login consumes resources:
      server capacity and electricity
      Think to the planet please.
      All those net usages (including smartphones) use more energy than the world air transport.

      While being an inconvenient in those days of immediacy , having to log in once a day is really a minor inconvenient.
      There was a time when one had to go to a library to try to find a good book on any subject.

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