Reply To: Sawing straight – help needed
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To Jotato: regarding your post a week and a half ago:
[quote quote=120793]I will keep on practicing then! My only saw it one I picked up second hand and I had to tune up. Although I assume it is my technique, it is possible I didn’t get the saw right. It is a 9ppi rip cut and I used the ‘9’ setting on my saw set (a stanley 42w). Would it be worth it to remove the set from the saw, and try again?[/quote]
I have a saw set whose instructions say that the number on the set does not correspond with the tpi of the saw. I set my saws before I read that and I set them WAY too much. I read somewhere that a rule of thumb for set is that the total set should be no more than 20% to 30% more than the plate thickness. Here is a quote from a page on the website: http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/ftj/spring97/spring97.html
“The actual amount of set applied to the blade is measured with a micrometer A good method to use is to measure the thickness of the blade just above the teeth to get an idea of how thick the blade is without any set. Unless a saw has just had new teeth cut, it will have at least some set. Let’s say we measure the saw in question and the blade is .035 inches thick. A good rule of thumb is to increase the thickness of the blade by 20% for dry hardwoods, and 25-30% for softwoods. So, our .035 blade would need to be increased to .042 inches for use in hardwoods, or up to .046 inches for softwoods and wood that is wet. This is just a guideline, but it is a good place to start until experience with your particular set is gained.”
I apologize to vintagesaws.com if I’ve violated any copyrights.