Reply To: Plane cutting depth issue
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Hello James,
I bought a Silverline #4 and #5 also. The #5 is going need to some major surgery but the #4 works well after some TLC. The following is based on my experience.
1. The planes had different cap irons and different lengths, which is critical between the cap iron shaped edge and the upper side of the Y adjustment slot. There’s about 3mm in the difference. The cap iron as shown in PS blog has the “CORRECT ANGLE FOR GRINDING” stamped into it and I would say it is the correct length for the plane. However the plane iron was sticking out the bottom of the plane when I got it and I have removed about 5mm so far and it is adjusting well. If you’re using it as a Jack plane, rough everyday use, a 1mm camber should be ok, maybe a little big, I just measures mine at 0.8mm, but take the edges almost to the corners of the cap iron when lining up. (normally its more for a smoothing camber). You will need a smaller camber maybe 0.2mm for smoothing. I tried a Stanley iron cap from my e-bay promised perfect clunker and it didn’t work with the Silverline #4 but the blade does.
2.You need to work on the cap iron and plane iron so they sit flush. I found these three rants
very good on setting up cutting iron for tearout and it may take a while to get right if its you’re fist time doing it. If you’re still getting crinkly, wavy shavings you may have to back off the cap iron first and then the frog a little to open the mouth until it disappears – the shaving is getting crushed basically it clogs up the throat causing tear out.
Keep us updated, stay focused, etc
Regards,
John Meaney
- This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month ago by John Meaney.