Reply To: Chisels go blunt quickly cutting housing dado
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Brett-
Wesley may have meant a micro-bevel, not a “back-bevel”.
Wesley-
Paul’s method includes just a few grits, a strop, and no honing guide. The simplicity of his method makes me not fear or abhor sharpening any more. Paul suggests the use of a training block (of wood) to become familiar with the proper sharpening angle, but ultimately sharpening free-hand is what makes Paul’s method fast and fuss-free (especially with diamond plates).
I would aim for 25-35 degrees, depending on the type of steel and the type of operation. A2 steel should be 30+ degrees, while O2 can be 25-30. With Paul’s freehand method, the effective bevel angle is the angle at the very cutting edge, not the average angle of the convex bevel.
Do your Nooitgedacht chisels say what kind of steel they are? I have seen 1980’s Nooitgedacht chisels on my ventures, but I believe they were Chromium-Vanadium alloy, like most modern German chisels. I have also read of other people claiming Swedish steel on their Nooitgedacht chisels, as well as some others complaining that their Nooitgedacht chisels were soft. The quality may depend on what era the chisels came from.
Above all else when sharpening, I would make sure you create and feel for a slight, even burr all the way across your cutting edge, and train yourself to witness that wire edge coming off during the stropping process. Confirm by seeing if the edge reflects any light. Then you know your sharp without even testing.
Hope that helps.