Reply To: What 2 hand planes to start with.
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I appreciate your reply it is very informative and very helpful thank you.
A true scrub plane will be in my future I am sure, for now the scrub/roughing blade and extra chip breaker to keep those together, I got will suffice for now. A #5 with a extra 55° frog and Low angle jack was my original game plan. Might still get the 55° frog time will tell . Game plan is #4, #5, router, shoulder and plow
I have watched a few different videos on how to do a chamfer on a blade I like Matt Estlea version. Do 5 points of contact do 30 strokes on both the left and right 20 on the inner left and right and 10 in the center then 5 straight back. It seems to work for him so ill give it a go. I get why you would want it so the corners don’t dig in and leave streaks/tracks.
As for as type of wood I will be getting will probably be a mix of some dimensioned and rough cut.
As for as other style of planes, I know just by looking at it I wouldn’t care for Veritas norris style adjustment. That just looks like a nightmare having your depth and skew all on the same lever. I could be wrong but to me it would seem a hassle to deal with. I Would love to try a Japanese wooden plane as I love their knives, saws and chisels. Their saws just feel like a extension to my arm, I know Paul isn’t fond of them as 99% of the ones we get here in NA are the disposable blade style not the ones you can re-sharpen. The Chisels I like well I think its because of the steel that I love about them (Shirogami – #1, # 2 and Aogami – super, #1 and #2 steel) pure joy to deal with gets razor sharp very quick. I know the Japanese use those type of steel in their planes and if you want to go extremely top of the line can get Tamahagane the steel they make their swords out of.
As far as rust prevention I had my Paul Seller’s rag in a can made before I even received the plane. It is just like fire arms the salt and sweat will cause rust on the barrel of a rifle, Even the humidity in the air can cause steel to rust if not careful so all my chisels and knifes(I only have carbon steel knives no stainless can’t stand the dull things) get wiped with pure Camellia Oil. I know Paul and Rex Krueger use 3-1 oil on their planes. I might be new to hand planes but I am far from new to the world of carbon steel items, Pots, pans, knives, guns, chisels. I am just a sucker for all things carbon steel I guess lol.
Sharping I don’t have a Tormek or any other dedicated sharping machine I do however have a full set of shapton Kuromaku ceramic stones 120-30K plus glass diamond lapping plate to keep the stones flat and clean. I am going to try free hand at first, Like you said to do the ruler trick I watched Jonathan Katz-Moses on how to do it. I Have heard the Veritas honing guide is the best on the market at the moment at least all the people on Youtube prefer it over the L-N one. part of me says it would be a good choice to get but then I look at my chisels and they are square or at least square to my Starrett square so I am kind of on the fence about it at the moment. all of them say as long as you are within 1-3° each time you sharpen you will be fine it doesn’t have to be a exact science.
Again I very much thank you for your thought out and helpful response it is greatly appreciated.
John M. Carey 2nd