1st resaw attempt, need some advice
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Charles Cleland.
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8 February 2015 at 2:21 am #124470
Hi @tedcolorado,
Where does Paul show the poor mans toothing unit? Sorry if it’s obvious but I can’t find a technique video with that name.
Thanks!
8 February 2015 at 3:22 am #124471Paul Sellers has taught about this tool in his blog video section.
He calls it the poor mans toothing plane.
another idea is to clamp 2 pieces of wood to the sides of a gents saw or small dovetail saw to create a adjustable depth stop to allow the saw teeth to create a groove in the wood to be used as a guid for bigger saws or frame saws. i think some folks made a saw speecific to this task called a stair saw…it has an adjustable depth blade
I originally saw the tips from a guy on wkfinetools.com and the old williamsburg episodes adventures of Roy Underhill in the 2nd year of his old tv show the woodwright.
the guide groove helps keep the saw blade from wanderuing in order to resaw the wood piece in half as best as possible assuming your saw blade is sraight and not ebnt or too much tooth set.
Im sure paul or Roy are better authorities on the subject..This is what i learned from these folks
Hope that helps8 February 2015 at 7:16 am #124474@tedcolorado, are you sure you meant the poor man’s toothing plane? If I remember right in that video Paul is demonstrating making a tool for roughening a surface for veneering? Is it possible you are thinking of a kerfing plane? Tom Fidgeon has some good videos on making one, and it does what you are describing.
8 February 2015 at 4:48 pm #124482if you look at the items that make up the toothing plane it is simply 2 pieces of wood on either side of a saw blade. the blade can be used to cut as well as scrape
8 February 2015 at 5:45 pm #124484@tedcolorado, your intentions are good but I think this toothing plane line of thinking is a dead end.
1. It uses a hacksaw blade, hardly ideal for rip cutting wood;
2. It is unfenced, so you’re basically freehand following your line – exactly what you’d be doing anyway. Granted you could work out a way to fence it fairly easily, but then you’re making a disposable plane for every resaw or working out how to make one with an adjustable fence;
3. Saws are designed to cut wood; along the length of the cut, even carefully cut kerfs would be too shallow to compensate for bad techniqueI can understand how a genuine kerfing plane might help once in a while, on very wide boards, but its duties might just as well be carried out with a tenon saw, guided with a strip of wood if you must, or by learning to carefully following your lines.
I apologise if that sounds a bit harsh, but I don’t think the direction of the discussion was helpful.
Matt
8 February 2015 at 8:24 pm #124487matt you obviously have never used a groove as a guide for a frame saw to resaw wood
9 February 2015 at 1:58 am #124489Ted the poor mans toothing plane blade is installed at an angle? I could see where adding a depth stop toe arrangement with a couple of pieces of wood and no angle would help but without a fence you would still have to follow your line manually, so how is it an improvement?
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