New findings eliminates the need for no.51
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Wood and Wood Preparation / New findings eliminates the need for no.51
- This topic has 10 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 8 months ago by Gary.
-
AuthorPosts
-
23 December 2014 at 8:09 am #122526
I just want to pass on my own personal findings yo may disagree and that is fine but it is working for me consistantly over a 12 month period.
I built a ramped shooting board according to Derek Cohen’s 5° ramp angle, I honed a 35° secondary bevel on my low angle jack and let me point out firstly it made no difference in shooting between bevel up or bevel down they both gave me the same consistant results and ease of planing whether I planed softwoods or hardwoods.
I have been using this shooting board consistantly for the past 12 months and the results are outstanding, I have also used the standard flat board prior for years and it’s was ok but no where near as good as the ramped. Having said all that the main reason is not just the shooting board but the 35° secondary bevel, it stays sharper for much, much longer and it slices through most timbers like a dream but I am avoiding to use the word like butter as I’m not referring to those timbers that tool sellers like to use at trade shows. Many people have claimed that 25° bevel is what you use on end grain but as for me I found that didn’t work.
I was seriously considering for a very long if I should purchase either the veritas 51 or the LN but I just do not see the need since this is working for me.
23 December 2014 at 8:58 am #122527Hi Salko
I have tried the No 51 in stores and it does work great but would never consider paying that amount of money for a plane.
I have a standard flat board shooting board which works ok but could be better I would be interested in making the ramped board you talk about are there any plans available to follow
I have a spare Stanley No 4 1/2 do you think that would be a suitable plane to use , if so what is the best way to sharpen itThanks
David23 December 2014 at 9:20 am #122528There is no plans as such the dimensions are the same as your current shooting board except that the ramp is elevated 5°. If you like you can follow this link http://inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Advances%20in%20a%20ramped%20shooting%20board.html it has many useful items and tool reviews in it.
The secondary blade is at 35° I have gone to 37 but it was a tad harder to push, I have tried using a single bevel as Paul does but I did find it does take considerably longer to bring an edge, I suspect it could be the waterstone and the dimaond stones Paul uses do cut faster. However if one wanted to you could opt and grind an edge quickly with a grinder free hand or use a jig and then finish off with the water stones. The idea amongst the many is for the primary bevel to be at 25° now many hone the secondary to 27° for me that isn’t ideal. Having the primary set at 25 and secondary honed to 35 takes a considerale amount of time rehoning that primary edge in order to get rid of that secondary bevel in order to reestablish it again if that makes sense, so I propose that the primary bevel should be at 33° and the sec. at 35°, this will help shorten the length of time when one needs to reestablish a new sec. bevel.
Hope this helps I expect Paul to jump down my throat anytime for this. Just remember this is what works for me and the timbers I use. This is not the be all and end all for eveyone, find what works for you and stick to it. The key word here is experiment.
23 December 2014 at 10:18 am #122529Thanks Salko for your quick response I think for starters I may fix a tapered ramp board to by existing board and grind up my spare 4 1/2 as you suggest and see how that works
23 December 2014 at 10:30 am #122530Exactly try the 4 1/2 but for me personally the the jack is a good one only for the reason of weight, I know you could even use a block plane if you really wanted to prove a point but in the darkness you would switch to a more heftier plane for momentum reasons. The 4 1/2 is a hefty plane and just as wide as a 5 1/2 so I think you should be ok and here’s a tip if you already don’t know it, for really stubborn end grain wipe some metho on it (alcohol) that should soften it up enough.
Good luck and post us your findings.
23 December 2014 at 7:25 pm #122580I will see how I go with the 4 1/2 I have just got it off E-bay i thought I was buying a No 4 that i was going to convert into a scrub plane, my mistake I ended up with the 4 1/2 I had bid on several no 4 that I did not get and I left a bid just before switching off for the night. It was not till I opened the box I realised my mistake It is in good condition bit rusty but looks like it has had very little use. I have spent the afternoon flattening the sole and cleaning and sharpening the iron not a bad buy for under £20 including postage. Until i saw your e-mail on the shooting board i did not know what I could do with it so thanks for that
23 December 2014 at 10:49 pm #122584That is a great buy I like the 4 1/2 I like it’s width, Paul’s favourite is the 4 mine is the 5 1/2 I prefer that over the 4 everyone has a favourite go to tool they all function the same there is no difference between them and they all if one wanted could be used for as well. My very first plane was a no.7 I used that for everything but soon became cumbersome because of it’s length then came the no 4, then the low angle jack and finally the 5 1/2 this plane I just love so much, but I do use all of them according to the size of work and typee of work.
I’ve been using a wooden jointer plane with my shooting board. Works great for me. The number4 Stanley pinches my hand and fingers,so I gave up on it. I couldn’t tell you what angle I use, since I sharpen all free hand.
Using a shooting board makes wood working a lot easier. It’s easier to assemble when everything is exact length and exact angles.
24 December 2014 at 12:19 am #122588Most of the time I first clean up the end grain with my 4 or block plane or bothin the vice to get it close to the line and then finish it off on the shooting board. I do this because it’s easier on me and there’s less shooting on the board which means one less plane not worry about sharpening as often.
I just made a new shooting board a couple of weeks ago using Paul’s design except for the “runway” for the plane made out of a piece of 1/2″ thick polyethylene I bought from Veritas. I really am enjoying this feature; the plane slides like it was on ice! Also, I had the same trouble as dborn: on my old shooting board, I used my go-to favorite Stanley #4 and was constantly pinching and cutting myself. I’m not even certain how I was doing it. Now, with the new board, I started using my Stanley 4 1/2. With the increased height and weight, it works perfectly and no self-inflicted injuries!
[attachment file=”DSCN0170.JPG”]
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files. -
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.