patio railing ideas?
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Hello friends,
I have another project upcoming. Our patio will be redone in a few weeks and I think about making my own guard railing (elevated patio, one part as deep as 3m. So far I know I will needs some kind of weather resistant wood like banghirai, douglas fir or Siberian larch and I would like to do real joinery. The problem is to keep it simple and feasible. Without help I would end up with a way too complex construction which will never be finished. Sizes will be approximately 4, 3.5 and 1 meter, the rest is open
Does anyone of you have done something like this or can give me some pointers to what to avoid and what to keep in mind? I appreciate any hints. Thanks.
David
2 February 2014 at 5:26 pm #27067David, can you post a picture of the area you will be putting up the railing, and an idea of what will be changed when you redo it?
3 February 2014 at 12:54 am #27124You would normally have a 100x100mm newel post at at each end of run if run to long consider an intermediate newel post. You also need to figure how you would fix newel post to ground. If part of timber decking normally dig whole and concrete in the ground hole should be about 500mm deep level post and concrete. After concrete set
Then you would have a handrail which you put tenons on and mortise into newel post and use a draw pin on the joint.
Then you have some sort of base rail which just gets cut in between newel posts.
Then you put you spindles/sticks equally but not more than 100mm apart that is to ensure a child’s head would not get stuck in between the spindles/sticks.
A good example would be a balustrade on a staircase landing.
If you are already on concrete this could be a bit of a problem as you would have find a way of fixing newel post to concrete and that could mean a a metal sleeve that has a flange on it that has four holes in it so you could raw bolt to concrete. This just dose not look that nice if it were me I woul probably bust hole in concrete dig hole 500mm deep fill with concrete remember to level newel post as you do that. Make good and rapair hole made.I just think it a better way to fix posts then using horrible metal brackets.
Hope helpsSteve: I have no pictures, yet, sorry. The patio will be elevated 70cm with a wooden construction based on concrete deep foundations.
Mark: I hope to be able to fix the posts to the base construction. I don’t know if I understood correctly, but I have no round spindles but would like to use rectangular boards. I was just wondering how to connect them to top and bottom rail without having to cut hundreds of mortises and tenons. I considered a grooved top rail and to insert tenoned ribs with spacers or use pins to fix them. Don’t know about the bottom rail, since it would allow water to stand in the groove.
Maybe someone has done something like this before or has seen some kind of technique used for this?
David
3 February 2014 at 9:01 pm #27176Hi David I have done a few timber decks in my time.
Now that I understand you are elevating on timber structure off of a concrete base.
You will need to plan how you joist will be supported. Also will you attach to building? Joist should be 400mm centres and depending how many supports you put under joist will determine the width and thickness of joist.
I would still support on 100 x 100mm post half lap to joist and use bolt nut and washers to secure . You could also support joist using block or brickwork but that goes into a different trade.
A handrail and a base rail normally have a groove in them and you normally glue and pin an infill piece in between the board in your case which you could put a curvy shape on 100mm gap in between the widest point.
Height of handrail from deck should be a Minimum or 1000mm
I have done a very quick drawing on handrail. Afraid not very good 🙁
If you could send a plan of area and state where any buildings are in relation to decking.
You will possibly have to also build some steps to get down to original ground level.
I could possibly work out what you would need.
I hope I am on the right track know.
Hope this helps and not confuse you to much I am not the best at explaining things.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Mark, thank you for taking the time for a drawing. The infill was something that I hadn’t understood. How do you pin the infill piece? Also I was thinking about using two boards for the bottom and glueing and pinning them instead of a foot rail. That way, water can run just through between the boards. And you’re right, I will need stairs, and don’t know a good way to do them.
It’s too late tonight for a drawing, but I will try to do one soon. Thanks again.
Rusty, thanks for the reminder, I’d like to think I would be on the safe side by myself, but it’s better to check.
Good night.
David
4 February 2014 at 10:40 pm #27270Hi David you just glue and use a panel pin i.e. a small nail one or two pins through the infill piece into handrail or base rail.
David two battens on the deck each side of your spindle/shaped board would work and just screw through batten into board.
Stairs / steps need a far bit of thought and there are a few ways you can do it.
It quite hard to explain and there are certain rules and regulations you have to follow I’m in UK so you may have slightly different rules to follow in Germany.
If you need any advise I’ll be glad to give it. -
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