Reply To: Can you go too far with sanding?
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I get the smoothest surface off the plane, and I cringe a bit at having to mess that up by sanding (roughening) to accept a finish. I go with 250 or so, and yes, you can sand an edge even though you are using block, because the paper will roll over if not completly taught. This article may be of help. http://www.jamarco.com/91b_Technical/sandpaper/Making%20Sense%20of%20Sandpaper%20-%20Page%202%20-%20Fine%20Woodworking.htm/ if the link wont work, this is the section of interest:
“Sand bare wood to 180- or 220-grit–For sanding bare wood, 180-grit will generally give you a surface that looks and feels perfectly smooth and is ready for a finish of some kind. Sanding the surface with a finer grit is only necessary if you’re going to use a water-based finish. These finishes will pick up and telegraph the smallest scratches. Sanding the wood to 220-grit or finer will prepare the surface better. However, it’s not always wise to sand to a finer grit. You will waste your time if you can’t tell the difference, and you may create problems in finishing. Maple sanded to 400-grit will not take a pigmented stain, for example. Pigments work by lodging themselves into nooks and crannies on the surface; without them, they will have no place to stick.”