Reply To: Anyone in the USA willing to regrind a bevel for me?
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I agree with what the others said, but am happy to do my best if you’d like someone to try and if you’re willing to accept that, despite best efforts, it’s possible to ruin the iron with grinding.
Mind what Salko said carefully, if you find a grinder yourself….square off the edge first. Don’t try to grind a bevel that you work back further and further. Doing so maintains a thin edge throughout the grinding and that edge will burn. Instead, square off, as he says, and work back past the nick, then regrind the bevel and be very careful in the last moments (or leave them to finish by hand, stopping the grinding short of the edge).
Look at your iron and convince yourself that there’s hardened steel beyond the chip and that there isn’t so much taper that, when we’re done, the iron won’t fit in the plane properly.
Again, try what Salko suggests by hand on fresh paper…if it works fast enough for you, it will give you much more freedom. Also consider, even if it takes you all day to grind it by hand, it’s going to take at least a week to send it back and forth.
One concern….that iron is skewed. You probably need to send both the plane and the iron so that I can make sure that I match the sole profile after grinding. If you decide to do this yourself by hand, know a useful trick: Mount the iron in the plane and trace the sole onto the back of the iron. It shows you exactly where your bevel needs to land. Works for any shaped sole, including moulding planes. Grind square until a touch proud of that line, then grind the bevel to exactly hit the line. This avoids a lot of errors.