• Ed replied to the topic Chest of Drawers in the forum Projects 1 day, 16 hours ago

    Beautiful work! How did you form the profiles on the drawer fronts?

  • There are marking / cutting gauges on which the headstock is not flat, but is pointed so that the gauge can follow a contour. I wonder if you could cut the central opening and then use such a gauge to define the edge of the rebate. Use a gouge to deepen the knife wall from the marking gauge and remove the waste as for any rebate. Work your way…[Read more]

  • Some of us are left eyed, some of us are right eyed. Draw a cut line on a piece of scrap, place it on a table (no need for a vise or clamp), and then lay your saw on the line as if you were going to cut. Depending upon your handedness and your eye-ed-ness, you will prefer to be on one side of the line or the other. This partly relates to whether…[Read more]

  • Phil,

    Many chests would have a profiled edge on the top. Even though Paul’s current design doesn’t call for a profile, this seems an excellent opportunity for him to show us how. Would you please ask Paul if […]

  • Add another vote for the 4″ double square. Besides being nimble for layout, it is able to get into joints to check them while making adjustments, e.g., to see if dovetails and sockets are square and clean, to probe into a mortise to make sure the walls are true and the bottom is at full depth everywhere. Also, the handle is a square reference…[Read more]

  • I’m not sure what to suggest for the cupping. If you introduce moisture, you may go right back to where you were 10 years ago, but I understand the logic of trying to reform the back to flat.

    The piece in your photo doesn’t look very cupped. If it isn’t very much, could you flatten the back of the moulding, glue up, and then either live with the…[Read more]

  • Lie Nielsen has fantastic customer support. Before you do anything to the saw, send an email or give them a call. I think they will be happy to help.

    One of the photos leaves the impression that the teeth have been stoned (to reduce the kerf/set). It is very hard to tell from the photos, so that may not be true. If so, maybe the set is too…[Read more]

  • By the way, there was a period of furniture that is sometimes called the “Walnut Period” in which mouldings were formed cross-grain and then applied, just like on your piece. You could investigate that period to learn what precautions they took and what rules of thumb they had for construction. I’d try to find original descriptions rather than…[Read more]

  • This is just a guess on my part, not expertise: Although the moulding grain is crossed vs. the supporting framing, the widths of both are small, just a few inches. It is surprising that there was enough movement to cause failure, but then again the move in location was an extreme change in moisture. If there were my own piece for my own use, I’d…[Read more]

  • Thanks, Frank. I just found that, at the start of Episode 5, it becomes clear that the rear M&T are loose, not glued, to accommodate movement.

    So, that just leaves the question about the top being housed.

  • By chance, is this happening after you’ve drawn the saw back a few times? You then find you cannot make a forward stroke? If so, there’s nothing wrong with the saw, probably. If you start a saw by drawing back, what can happen is that the saw hops vertically as you draw back (since it cuts on the push), landing repeatedly on its teeth. This…[Read more]

  • I’m afraid I just do not understand the design of this piece. If the drawer frame tenons are all glued, and if the through tenon at the back is tight, then the through tenon and the dovetail between the front of […]

  • You can use a big plastic trash bag, too, which has the advantage of being reusable. That’s what Paul had us use in class. The trash bag is so quick that you can toss your work into the bag when you take a break.

  • Ed replied to the topic Inlayed Frame in the forum Picture Frames 1 week ago

    Paul made an inlay scraper in class. I’ll see if I can find my notes. It was a card scraper, some scrap wood, and a C-clamp (G-cramp for some of us? 🙂

  • I don’t think you made any mistakes. Cutting the wood leads to moisture exchange, which leads to movement. Next time, cut thick, then put the wood aside for a few days to give it time to cup, twist, and bow. Since you left the board fat (and wide), you’ll have the extra material you’ll need to plane the board flat and to dimension. At this point,…[Read more]

  • These are often listed as deburring bits rather than countersink. I have a set from Harbor Freight that worked well, but dulled. I’ve not found an effective way to sharpen them, but surely there must be.

  • Ed replied to the topic Coffee Grinder in the forum Projects 2 months, 1 week ago

    I like the way the hopper and box relate to each other. How would you feel if the crank was somewhat larger, heavier, and higher and maybe with a knob turned from wood?

    As a technical detail- Did you turn the hopper, inside and out, on a faceplate and then part it off? Is it tenoned into the top of the box?

  • Something like this happened to me, but with white oak. I am convinced, from speaking with others, that the wood was not dried properly. Also, white oak is known for having problems with internal checking and is easy to ruin in the drying process.

    I was taught to cut an inch of the end of a piece of lumber, then rap or flex the cutoff to see if…[Read more]

  • I just wouldn’t do this. The chisel defines the width of the mortise. Work to the tools that you have, i.e., use 6, 16, and 25mm mortises. Otherwise, I am afraid you will find that the chisel is pushed sideways or twists when trying to make the mortise in multiple passes and you will not get the accuracy you need. Only the trick of taking out the…[Read more]

  • Ed replied to the topic Garage Shop Renovation in the forum Off-topic 2 months, 3 weeks ago

    You forgot one of the most important aspects of the Lehigh Valley….The Lehigh Valley Velodrome in Trexlertown!

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