Make sure to read Auriou’s web page about cleaning and caring for them, including the admonition not to clean with a wire brush and to protect from bumping the teeth.
If you find some decent, fine shaping files to work with the rasps, let me know. : – )
Hey, guess what? It’s in his book, p.392. “My most frequently used rasps are the 12″ by 1 1/2″ cabinet rasp with a grain #10 stitch, followed quickly by a 7″ by 1/2″ grain #13 stitch. I have other rasps but these would be my recommended starter sizes.” The photos look to me like the cabinet makers rasp (12″) and the model maker’s rasp…[Read more]
@NARRS Paul wrote an article about Auriou rasps here: https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/aurou-rasps-good-on-the-wood-and-good-in-the-hand/ . In the questions section, I asked what he was using, and he said he was using the “chair maker’s triple set.” I don’t see that at Highland any more, but I ordered rasps a couple years later and ordered…[Read more]
@alan141 even tiny amounts of silicone can cause fish eyes in a finish. Maybe this is mostly a lacquer issue, but since I occasionally use a little bit of aerosol can lacquer, and because I don’t want to deal with a complete strip of a bad finish, I just avoid silicone in the shop. Any time someone says, “Use X,” the first thing I check is if…[Read more]
The nice thing about a pencil in this case is that you can make it super ridiculously sharp and then pull a thin, gentle line with close to zero pressure on the square, but a knife leaves the possibility of nudging the square, especially for a 45 degree line. It’s true that the pencil line may be a bit thicker, but with a decent sized test…[Read more]
Another method would be to check the 90 degree first. If that is okay, scribe a line 90 degrees to a straight edge. Next, go an arbitrary distance to the left and scribe a line at 45 degrees that meets the 90 degree line. You now have a triangle. (Just one triangle. Not two, as in the diagram in the earlier post.) Get a pair of dividers and…[Read more]
Yes – It is a kind of caul. You cut it from scrap, notching as needed to give something that will apply pressure in the required places. See the attached photo (gluing drawers). There are a couple cauls sitting on the bench, too, behind the clamped drawer in the foreground.
You do want the cauls to be true, square, and parallel, or else clamping…[Read more]
In 2×2 material (1 1/2″), there is plenty of room for a 1/2″ mortise, so this should come out fine. You can definitely do this with a 1/2″ chisel. Your daughter will love it!
I cannot tell from your description whether you are making the walls of the mortise too thin. For material around 3/4 to 1″ thick, people typically shoot for a mortise that is about 1/3 the width. That’s why the mortise (and tenon) is often around 3/8″ thick…3 x 3/8 = 9/8, which is about an inch. If the mortise walls are too thin, then the…[Read more]
Glad it helped. After I posted it, I wondered if I, in fact, I take just the slightest bit of the line out since a zero clearance joint won’t actually assemble and also to leave room for glue swelling. This is something you need to play with for yourself, but the description, as written, seemed the clearest way to give the basic idea without that…[Read more]
For the tails first method that Paul teaches, here’s how I think about it. The tails can be cut any way you like. You don’t even need layout lines as long as you saw square to the face and do not go past the shoulder line. Now, imagine placing the pins piece in the vise and laying the tails piece on top of it to mark the pins. All of the wood…[Read more]
From reading here it seems most people don’t even bother with them and generally go for a Veritas dovetail instead?
Not at all. If I could only have one, it would be a 14″ tenon saw, 12 tpi, set fine. With that, I can do all of my joinery, including dovetails and tenons. The converse is not true in that I’d find a dovetail saw to be too s…[Read more]
See if you can find Tod Herrli’s video on making hollows and rounds. If you get it used, make sure the printed sheet is included because it has dimensions and plans. The video covers making the plane as well as making and firing the iron. It also describes how to make a set of floats, which you will need.
There are many woods that you can use.…[Read more]
In the Video Library, the Project Videos appear as a neat array, all on one page. The Tool & Technique Videos appear as a few videos per page and you must advance page by page through all ten pages to see all of them.
If it isn’t much work, could the Tool & Technique Videos be displayed the same as the Project Videos? Having all the videos on…[Read more]
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