I realized after my post that I use Paul’s progressive sharpening so the first inch or so progresses from very gentle rake to aggressive rake. This helps with the “gentle rub” before setting in with a definitive push.
Paul teaches “push first,” too. Otherwise with finely sharpened saws, especially in soft woods and end grain, when you draw back, the saw bounces up the ramps of the teeth, falls on the points of the teeth, and makes little pockets. Then, when you try to push, the teeth get stuck in those pockets. This is why you sometimes feel like the saw gets…[Read more]
I forgot to say: Set up a rag can that has a lid. We discussed them a few months back. Mine is a two-piece, palm sized tin with a piece of foam in it, rather than a rag. Mine is from some Thule locks, but many candy tins are like this.
Camelia oil. It’s nice and thin and applies easily. To me, it is either odorless or has a very faint floral aroma. I also know from experience that camelia has never interacted with any of my finishes. Note that, aside from the finish, many oils will react with the wood and darken it, causing blotching. I’ve never seen that with camelia oil, at…[Read more]
I ran into something like what you are experiencing with some maple. Ideas are:
(1) Go cross grain as you have been to get to dimension and flat, but then switch to a scraper to get your final surface. That should let you work along the grain. One problem with this is that the edges can spelch off while planing cross-wise.
(2) Not only get…[Read more]
Ed replied to the topic Methods for hand cutting rabbeted drawers with half blind dovetails in the forum Woodworking Methods and Techniques 2 weeks ago
I built a chest using what you are calling an overlay where you laminate the drawer face onto a drawer box made with through dovetails rather than half-laps. The method can be efficient with wood use, since the face isn’t as thick as the full front. It’s also a little faster to cut through dovetails than half-lap.
It’s a nice method, but be…[Read more]
I am starting to realize that the side bevels only go so far and then become flat-sided.
I have had trouble with bruising wood while dovetailing, and my main question is, are these acceptable for use in dovetailing or do I need to get real full bevel edge chisels?
Where is the bruising? Is it in the very corners of the…[Read more]
This looks really nice, so nice that I’m not sure if it is still the prototype. If it’s the prototype, one choice is whether you reverse the rails and stiles on the top. The choice is whether you want to see the haunch from the front, as you have it now, or if you want a continuous front edge, and see the haunch from the side. Having it on the…[Read more]
You can mount a blade and cap iron from one of your other planes in the problematic plane as a test, even if the blade width isn’t exactly right. It will show you the effect of moving to a thinner blade. Based on that, you can decide to get a new blade.
My #8 is the best shooting plane I own. I wouldn’t buy a #8 just for this purpose, but it is excellent. The momentum moves it through the cut smoothly and the large size makes it easier for me to grab.
I smile every time I haul that plane out. It is so ridiculous, but if you want something to be straight or something to be shaved out of…[Read more]
- Load More