Reply To: Wooden mug, barrel style, an experiment
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Hi C White! I am not sure yet, what to use. It must be food grade and it must harden hard, not slimey-gooey. And, preferably, it should not contain nuts, because of the allergic reactions that some people have. Alternatively, I will simply leave it raw.
And the answer to the other obvious question: I will finish the iron hoops, possibly with clear hard laquer. Why? I don’t want them to rust.
Ok, here is my hoop-workshop:
(you should right-click and select “open in new window” on the first attachment now, then arrange the browser windows to see both, the text and the foto)
[attachment file=142206]
The heavy hammer is used as an anvil in the vise. I only used it once, then turned to a metal vise, which is slightly heavier and less mobile than the hammer in the vise.
The odd mushroomed metal piece is used to shape the rod of the rivet
I use the center punch to make a hole through the hoop iron, then the awl to make it wider. It is just a simple awl with squared tip (see Paul Seller on that, he explains, why it needs a square tip rather than a rounded one).
Then I use the file to remove the burr around the hole.
Finally, a rivet is inserted (from inside out, because otherwise I can’t hit it), it gets a nice punch with the shaper, then is punched flat.
I flatten the rivet heads on the inside to make them a bit smoother and flatter. I might need a smaller file for that.
The small hoop is my first try. A bit too small to fit on the tankard yet, because I haven’t started tapering it.
[attachment file=142207]
(now pull the second attachment onto the first foto which is still open, it will appear there instead)
Some views of the finished rivets and the “inside” of the puncher.
For the puncher, I cut off the top part of a stone chisel and drilled a small hole into the end. This hole could be rounder on the inside, but I have no idea, how to do that. It does its job anyway, it creates a burr on the open end of the rivet. Frankly speaking, I am not sure, if I am doing it right. I only made a small burr, which was large enough to keep the rivet in place, then hammered heavily until I got something flat. On the upper right foto you can see the second attempt on the left side, the right side is the original rivet head filed down a bit. On the lower left, you can see the rivets in the same order, both filed down a lot.
By the way, the iron is not black as it appears on the fotos, it is grey.
I am also looking for a real anvil, around 10 kgs. But I have to get some information. Affordable anvils are made from cast iron and is not so good for hammering iron. These anvils are rather used for copper, tin, silver and gold. On the other hand, it doesn’t really matter if it takes 1 minute or 10 minutes to do the riveting. compared to the rest of the work, it is no time at all (so far, I might improve).
Dieter
- This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by Hugo Notti.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by Hugo Notti.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by Hugo Notti.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 10 months ago by Hugo Notti. Reason: various changes