Reply To: bullnose plane Stanley no 75 vs rebate no 78

#715916
Larry Geib
Participant

I don’t think the bevel up or down is the key difference. I’d like a like to see where Paul says that. What’s important Is the final presentation angle of the top face of the blade edge, and there isn’t much difference between 45° set bevel down and a 12° plane body with a 30° ground blade set bevel up – only 3°. And lower resultant angles can cause more tearout in contrary grain.
Here is a compilation of Paul’s on the subject:

https://paulsellers.com/tag/bevel-up-and-bevel-down/

One of the real issues was that the sole of the nose piece, as designed, is not flush with the sole of the main body of the plane. It’s higher. So no matter how close you set the nose to the blade edge, you can’t set the plane any finer than that difference in height, which varied depending which rookie was tasked with nose grinding that day. The one I happened to get was apparently ground on hangover Monday, and the finest cut I got out of the box was the thickness of the dime I mentioned.

Patrick Leach, again, finds the plane useful for cleaning up paint blobs, a job most people use a paint scraper for. He explains the sole difference like this:

“ The section of the sole ahead of the iron is not co-planar with the sole behind the iron. The plane is purposely made this way to assist it with its cut (you guys what owns the ‘lectrical jointahs should know why the plane’s sole is the way it is) so there’s no need to practice sole lapping on it.”

. I don’t know of any other plane that had a nose piece set higher than the body. Not even the peculiar 340 furring plane had the area immediately in front of the blade set higher than the sole.

A hand plane functions differently that that Jointah blade spinning at 25,000 rpm. I still have one of those, and that’s what I used to get tough titanium or lead base paint off old door edges to rehang them. Fitted with carbide blades, they didn’t have to be resharpened often. Then I followed up with a real plane on paint free wood. The jointah could also take 1/8” off a door in one swipe, a job no hand plane can muster no matter how strong you are.

As this plane is designed, the nose does absolutely nothing in a fine cut. Look at the #97 cabinet makers edge plane to get an idea of what it was good for.( if anything) and the nose just got in the way of that function and can’t be removed.

One of the first things you needed to do to get the plane to work at all was reduce of eliminate that flaw, which meant you were purchasing a plane kit, or project, not a plane.