Larry Geib

  • Too loud? Just wear earplugs 🙂

    More seriously, it would depend on what species you are cutting the Mortise in. Eastern White or Sugar pines would be a breeze.
    Some hardwoods like cherry wouldn’t be much of a problem, either.itll just be slower.
    I’d avoid woods with pronounced early and late wood.

    I see a potential move to an urban high ris…[Read more]

  • But are there any cons of using fragments of copper pipe as ferrules?

    Just that copper oxidizes quickly. A coat of lacquer slows that.

    You might try using brass or nickel plated copper ( chrome is kinda garish). Bits of old shower pipe works and looks nice longer.

    Or cut up your little brother’s old trombone 😉

  • Answer in the first 15 seconds here

  • For precision tools, I try to keep the original cases. Some have corrosion inhibitors in the foam.
    Some guys use the little bags people use to keep silver dinnerware.
    They contain a mystery chemical that inhibits corrosion.
    But I’ve found all that unnecessary if you keep a dehumidifier running ( mine drains to the sewer system).

    I’ve had one run…[Read more]

  • Oh, you can’t deny some people love them, but BU planes as finishing planes is a recent phenomenon, well after Stanley stopped making them.

    Thick blades and A2 may be driving forces.

    They weren’t particularly cheap. My 1906 Hammacher Schlemmer catalogue has a no° 62 at $2.85. A no°5 Bailey was $2.60 and a 604 Bedrock was $2.75.

    And don’t…[Read more]

  • Note I didn’t go into the appearance grades, which are graded for how nice they look. CVG (Clear vertical grain), for instance, is stunning stuff at a stunning price. Very popular for trim and detail in the NorthWest for Arts and Crafts styles.

  • Note I didn’t go into the appearance grades, which are graded for how nice they look. Clear vertical grain, for instance, is stunning stuff at a stunning price. Very popular for trim and detail in the NorthWest.

  • Douglas fir is excellent for workbenches. You will probably have to let it dry a bit, since most stuff in stores is 15%-19%.

    But be a little careful. Douglas fir is a different wood than that firs. Those woods (grand fir, noble fir, etc) are lumped together in stores with Spruce and pine under the SPF (Spruce-pine-fir) and are softer and weaker…[Read more]

  • Yeah, I said not cheap.

    But it doesn’t hurt so much if you think of it as just the cost of the plane. I bought a coffin smoother blank for $24 and that seemed fair after trying to source it otherwise. Nobody mills this stuff. Every once in a while, a plane maker might offer blanks on his website, but not consistently, and not much cheaper.

    The b…[Read more]

  • Another thing you can try if you are sharpening jig phobic, is to cut a couple blocks at 25 and 30 degrees and place them near your stone.

    Just having the angled block as a visual guide can be a big help in judging the correct angle.

    And don’t sharpen directly towards and away from you like the iron is in a sharpening jig as your arms contract a…[Read more]

  • Beech blanks are available here:

    Dried and ready to go. I didn’t say cheap.

    You mentioned Cherry, and it will make a good plane, as will just about any fruitwood with a diffuse-pourous grain. Several,planemakers are selling cherry p…[Read more]

  • Larry Geib replied to the topic Non-darkening natural finish? in the forum Finishing 1 week ago

    Looks great.if you want a bit silkier feel, you can overcoat with a coat or two of wiping varnish and it won’t darken. I use Minwax tung oil finish or Antique oil finish

    These totes and knobs are beech that were given a thin wash of Jacobean to bring out the grain and Ray flecks. it’s three coats of shellac followed by wiping varnish. Then car…[Read more]

  • And for last – I am not aware, if there are (were?) woodworking planes that combine BD iron with cap iron (let’s say on fixed frog, or even solid “base” atached permanently to plane body) with “moveable sole part” throat opening adjustment, just like in BU planes? Are there any?

    Stanley’s new Sweetheart series #4 is exactly what you describe.…[Read more]

  • Mike siemsen shows how to use a Nicholson ( English) bench without a wise at at.

    The beauty of Paul’s bench is you can take it in any direction you please

  • I like what I am hearing about the #8, but the frog on mine has had the lateral adjustment broken off. Therefore, the only means of making that adjustment (that I know of) is little taps with a mallet.

    Don’t be too concerned. I was at a Lie Neilsen tool event last week and the demonstrators were using one of their little warrington hammers to d…[Read more]

  • If you think you might add a tail vise, you should probably lower the top leg stretcher on that end to allow for the bars and screw.

    I think Paul shows how in his previous build series for the larger workbench.

    How to Build a Workbench – Leg Frame Joinery (part4)

    You will probably profit from viewing that whole series anyway.

    And if you use…[Read more]

  • The Paul Sellers’ vise-clamp system or…

    But if you want a tail vise, end vise, planing stop, dog hole, holdfasts, etc. Just add them. A bar clamp will fit across the apron, but if you want shorter clamps drill holes in the apron for them. And you can drill holes for dogs to support…[Read more]

  • Larry Geib commented on the video, Workbench 1 week, 2 days ago

    Be careful? 😉

    Seriously, the possibility is only at two small spots but put packing tape, blue tape, or even a sheet of newspaper where there might be squeezout.

  • In the old days a drop light with a 10 watt refrigerator light bulb in the box kept condensation from forming when the wood stove went out at night. They are shatterproof. You also didn’t have to grab frozen steel first thing in the morning.

    Then I reversed the polarity on a computer Peltier cooler, which did the same at 12 volts and seemed s…[Read more]

  • clear shellac will work. Several coats with #0000 steel wool between them.

    If you are using canned stuff, I prefer Sealcoat, which is dewaxed and a lighter cut ( thinner).

    Work in some paste wax or beeswax at the end with more #0000. For a high shine use a carnauba wax blend of some sort.

    BLO is known for darkening woods. It will darken more…[Read more]

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