Beading irons don’t have to be razor sharp to work ok and often aren’t very dull because they just didn’t get used much.
But you can sometimes sharpen them up nicely by just using a stone and hone on the flat […]
I once did a major remodel and had a cabinet maker friend install some cabinets with French cleats and he used 3” drywall screws, which are usually case hardened. Everything went fine for about about 10 years. Then they e all sheared off at once and the cabinet landed on the counter, miraculously just landing on some cutting boards with no d…
You have black locust?
Robinia Pseudoacacia. It is native the Appalachians and Ozarks in the USA, but it was introduced to Europe where it is considered an invasive species, so you might find it inexpensively.
In tidewater areas it was grown for ship masts.
Absolutely rot proof, hard as iron but…[Read more]
There are #3’s and there are #3’s.
The later versions are only 1/4” shorter than a standard #4 and the only real difference is that 1/4” narrower iron. It’s almost a pound lighter.
The knob and tote on those later versions are EXACTLY the same. I think Stanley moved to standardization in the postwar years.
If you are small or have arthritis…[Read more]
Price is not an issue infinding old planes if you just look a little.
Not only are there inexpensive Stanley’s out there, but you can find competitor or secondary market planes from the 30’s and 40’s even cheaper and all will be a better buy than a HF paperweight.
With a Stanley, you might have to do some derusting, painting, and maybe fix a tot…[Read more]
My guess is that by the time Paul was done planing his boards they weren’t a full 1 5/8” either. Depending on the species, I’d compensate by keeping the proportions between apron and housing.
But you could laminate a 3/4” backer to the apron and really beef it up instead of cutting the housing.
I’ve seen other people’s designs for Nicholson…[Read more]
Lost of issues with rust can be greatly reduced with regular oiling, even in marine environments. But you have to be meticulous about it. Paul’s oil rag can can help a lot with that.
AS Long as the dew point he chest is lower than the outside, you will not get condensation.
I once shared a shop that was a farm outbuilding. During the day w…[Read more]
There are some other things to consider. Since you are focusing on small projects You might try using a n°3 instead of a n°4: and maybe a n° 5 1/4 instead of something like a 5 or 6.
The three makes a nice smoother that smaller folks find easier to use.
The 5 1/4 was made by Stanley for kids in woodworking classes.
Both planes have na…[Read more]
If the goal is to stick things together so they never come apart, There are two kinds of tape to look for.
The first is a type of double faced butyl tape that is often marketed as “servo tape” just google it. As sold, it is designed to hold hobby servos in place for model airplanes or boats. Once pressed into place, the only way to get the ser…[Read more]
I’ve tried using my hollow and rounds without great success but use edge beads and ovalo’s ok.
Yes I share your concern regard their future use……people just reach for a router!!
Paul won’t even give a demo with the sticking board…….I can’t see why[/quote]
Well, actually, there has been a robust resurgence with…[Read more]
Shaker pegs were a mass produced item in the shaker communities. The taper is a result of a taper socket in a lathe ( sort of like a Morse taper) that allowed them to be turned quickly with minimal chucking.
To duplicat the taper, the easiest way is to use a reamer.reamers smaller than 3/4” are readily available in hardware stores, but y…[Read more]
I just saw an interesting tip from the Fine Wooworking Instagram account for those of you who use sandpaper for sharpening.
Put a couple of rare earth magnets on the iron and They will attract the filings and steel dust off the sandpaper and on onto the edges of the iron.
When you are done, remove the magnets over the trash can. The paper will…[Read more]
The whole point of rubbing the steel on an abrasive is to get a burr. Concentrate on that. Concern about the relief angle might be a secondary issue if you have only sharpened once or twice. You may not have really done any sharpening.
If you don’t get a burr ( and then remove it) you haven’t sharpened, just worn away metal.
Try sharpening aga…[Read more]
If you have deep pockets, http://www.walkemooretools.com/shop/router-plane-model-2500/
Used Preston ones are about that on this side of the pond, but almost never come up for sale.
The rest of us will make […]
3″ is a lot.
Yes, but if you read what he wrote, that was with three legs on the ground. If you have levelers for two feet, it’s half that and a bit more manageable.
When I originally built my bench, it was to travel every couple months from job tho job, and levelers were necessary.
I found really heavy duty ones at an office furniture sup…[Read more]
Another product to research is acetal plastic ( Delrin ) it machines well even if tough on hand tools ( think ivory tough) and is very low friction. It’s is often used for bearing slides. I’ve used a piece for a table saw fence for 30 years. It will tap nicely for screws.
It’s usually machined with carbide tools, but a hacksaw and sanding will…[Read more]
I have always used a brush to apply milk paint and haven’t had the foaming problem, but where I buy the stuff there is usually a product next to the milk paint that is an anti foaming agent additive.
It may be the brand of roller, but some other issue such as water hardness or ( more likely) s…[Read more]
Secondly, if it isn’t parallel, what is the procedure to correct it?
The easiest method is to use the router itself to register the edge.
Install the cutter into the router, then position two blocks of wood of the same height on either side of a diamond plate but higher than it.
Place your router on the blocks and lower the cutter until it j…[Read more]
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