Reply To: Hand planing cherry stiles and rails
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I assume we are discussing real tearout and not just blotchiness Cherry often shows under stains and finishes. If that shows up despite your best efforts with planes and scrapers, fine sanding to grit levels higher than most folks normally do can be a cure. Hand sanding to 600 grit CAMI ( ~1200 FEPA) is not too much. Make sure you work up the grits.
If it’s actual tearout, You can try a higher pitch, but that doesn’t mean you have to invest in a new plane or even a new iron.
If you have a bevel up plane, just take a few strokes on your highest grit stone and try. You don’t have to work the whole bevel. It’s a good use of a micro bevel and a honing guide will help with consistency.
You can also do it with a bevel down plane by taking a few strokes on the top side ( flat side) of the iron. To make the pitch 55°, for example, hone a 10° bevel with your finest grit on the top side, The small back bevel can be removed on your next full sharpening regime with the iron if it doesn’t work for you.
The goal is to have a minuscule bevel on that side so it doesn’t require removing a large burr or wire edge and doesn’t interfere with your cap iron setting. A large back bevel isn’t necessary and is harder to remove on your next sharpening.
Before you try this be aware that really, really sharp cures a lot of Ills with softer domestic hardwoods like cherry and walnut, at least the American varieties. I have no experience with the European varieties.