- This topic has 6 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 10 months ago by Anonymous.
Anonymous30 March 2013 at 6:32 pm #10311
The norm is to grind and sharpen the edge to a single 45 degree bevel before burnishing the edge to raise a shallow hook.
Setting the blade is simple. Place the scraper base down on a flat surface and insert the blade so it’s edge rests on the underlying surface. The bevelled face of the blade should face backward/uppermost with the flat of the blade angled forward and facing downward. Tighten the locking plate screws at either side of the blade and adjust for cut by tightening or loosening the central screw to flex the blade.Anonymous30 March 2013 at 7:04 pm #10321
Never a problem Josh 😉
Don’t know about the condition on the sole on your’s, but I bought a new one about 10 years ago and the sole was no where near flat and had some pretty deep machine marks on it. I flatten and polished the back on a flat surface using wet/dry sandpaper.
The blade that came with mine was pretty thin but worked well after sharpening. I added one of Ron Hock’s blades for the #80 and it works even better. I still use the original as a backup to the Hock. The Hock stays sharper long and is less prone to chatter although the original isn’t bad if its sharp.
The 80 is a nice tool and for heavy duty work it’s easier on my arthritis than a card scraper.Anonymous31 March 2013 at 9:42 am #10343
I think the primary concern regarding sole quality is to ensure it is co-planar and nothing is present which could scratch or score the surface being worked on. Basically clean and flat. 🙂
#80’s certainly help avoid issues related to grip (Hand an wrist cramps, etc.) and how scraper blades can heat up and burn finger tips during use. I normally tape (Elastoplast fabric tape) my thumbs, fore and index fingers as a means of protection if using card scrapers for any length of time.
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