- This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 11 months ago by Anonymous.
17 December 2012 at 9:25 pm #5041
Over the weekend I decided to build a largish box to hold some of my more less used items, mainly things like sand paper, screws, some tins of stain, shellac etc. So far I have made the box and kick plate. the box measures 2 foot long by 1 foot wide by 11 inch deep made out of 1×6 pine. The kick plate is dovetailed around the bottom and is 1×2 maple. The bottom of the box I made a 1/4 inch groove and used the tongue making attachment on my plough plane to make the grooves for the bottom. I just plugged the groove holes with a handcut plug. Now I’m planning on a lid and am not sure what to do. Should I make a similar kick plate around the top and make the lid flush with that?
You must be logged in to access attached files.18 December 2012 at 1:03 am #5064
Nice dovetails Dave. Very nice box !!!
Meridianville, Alabama, USA18 December 2012 at 2:05 am #5072John PoutierParticipant
Noticed the bookshelf next to your workbench; nice job.
Yorktown, Virginia18 December 2012 at 3:43 am #5078Paul SellersKeymaster
I have seen every manner of dovetailed box you can imagine and surprisingly they have mostly had a solid wood top because it was the pre-manufactured plywood days. More surprisingly is the fact that they may have shrunk a little but they often had no cracks caused by the shrinkage. Every book I know would say don’t or you can’t put a solid top crossways to the fixed and rigid box and yet something tells me that that is what would look best. Have you thought about taking the box into where it will live the most and placing a piece of solid wood on top of the box and leaving it for a week or two. After it has acclimatised, fitting it to the box and letting the lid overhang with a roundover like we did on the clock top and bottom. I usually don’t go past 6″ to do this, but I never had a problem. I have also seen old tool chests even 20″ wide with a rebate around the top edge and the solid pine top recessed into that rebate. And then again I have seen the top simply glued and nailed to the rim of the box and then trimmed out as you say with a repeat of the toe board. I guess it’s your call.18 December 2012 at 11:40 am #5114
Thanks guys, I know I can find some wide board for a lid. I’ll go that route I think. Thanks Paul.
John, yes thats the bookshelf from Pauls DVD 🙂 I’m going to hang it this coming weekend.
-Canada19 December 2012 at 11:16 pm #5288
Well I finished it up tonight, I couldn’t find a wide enough board so I laminated two pine boards with a strip of maple I had extra.
Danish oil applied and some handles finished it up. Now to fill it up with stuff! I think dovetails are my favorite type of joint. I think I have a dozen boxes in various sizes laying about now.
You must be logged in to access attached files.20 December 2012 at 12:12 am #5290
Dave- very nice job sir. Id be proud to own a box like yours.
However, I have a question. When forming a lid like Daves, would it be best to tongue and groove the boards together ? What is the best joint for this kind of glue-up ?
Meridianville, Alabama, USA21 December 2012 at 2:51 am #5399ejpotterParticipant
When you’re gluing long grain to long grain that way, a smooth clean surface and glue is all you need. Biscuits, dowels, or T&G could be used to reference the edges to help eliminate slippage during glue-up, but really not necessary.
Just moved to NE Ohio21 December 2012 at 3:46 am #5400
Eric- thanks for answering my question.
Meridianville, Alabama, USA21 December 2012 at 9:43 am #5403AnonymousInactive
You’ve made a very nice job of your box 😉
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