Anyone in the USA willing to regrind a bevel for me?
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- This topic has 10 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 8 months ago by Salko Safic.
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26 January 2016 at 5:17 am #134198
While plowing a groove in walnut, the 1/2″ iron got a pretty severe chip. I don’t have a grinder and it would take hours to do this by hand. Is anyone willing to help? I’ll include return postage, of course.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.26 January 2016 at 7:37 am #134205a grinder would help but you don’t need one and it’s doesn’t take that long to fix it. Grab some course sandpaper and place it on a flat surface, take your iron and in a vertical position grind it away. This shouldn’t take more than 10-20mins max. Then re establish the edge with sandpaper going through the grits or with stones. Whole job maybe an hour.
26 January 2016 at 1:12 pm #134209It is of course always nice to find help in the group or environment where you feel ‘at home’ (like this forum).. But for this job I’d look around for a local workshop like auto repair shop or so. If you’re in luck, they will let you do the grinding yourself.
ps: mind to take only short grinds, cool regularly in some water and avoid heat build-up.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 8 months ago by Igor Kerstges.
I agree with what the others said, but am happy to do my best if you’d like someone to try and if you’re willing to accept that, despite best efforts, it’s possible to ruin the iron with grinding.
Mind what Salko said carefully, if you find a grinder yourself….square off the edge first. Don’t try to grind a bevel that you work back further and further. Doing so maintains a thin edge throughout the grinding and that edge will burn. Instead, square off, as he says, and work back past the nick, then regrind the bevel and be very careful in the last moments (or leave them to finish by hand, stopping the grinding short of the edge).
Look at your iron and convince yourself that there’s hardened steel beyond the chip and that there isn’t so much taper that, when we’re done, the iron won’t fit in the plane properly.
Again, try what Salko suggests by hand on fresh paper…if it works fast enough for you, it will give you much more freedom. Also consider, even if it takes you all day to grind it by hand, it’s going to take at least a week to send it back and forth.
One concern….that iron is skewed. You probably need to send both the plane and the iron so that I can make sure that I match the sole profile after grinding. If you decide to do this yourself by hand, know a useful trick: Mount the iron in the plane and trace the sole onto the back of the iron. It shows you exactly where your bevel needs to land. Works for any shaped sole, including moulding planes. Grind square until a touch proud of that line, then grind the bevel to exactly hit the line. This avoids a lot of errors.
26 January 2016 at 4:55 pm #134214Ed that angle is set to 22.5 degrees there’s a good chance he may get it wrong. You may if you like and this is a suggestion which path you take is your own, lee valley sells a jig to sharpen these angles but you will also need a MKII sharpening whatever you call it just remember MKII it’s late so I’m not thinking straight. This will help you sharpen all your blades and keep consistency in any angle. Not sure how much it is where you are but here it will set you back about $100. There;s no shame in using a jig even if you are a pro whatever gets the work done is all that matters. Tom Fidgen uses one, I use one you know what I mean.
26 January 2016 at 5:26 pm #134215I’ll try sandpaper. Last time I had to do this it took me half a day. granted, that was on a 2in iron, maybe this will go faster.
The cutter is for a Stanley 46. I think has long as I keep the skew close to what it is, it should be fine.
Hi Salko- I know the jig you mean. I have one, and they are very nice. Usually, I grind and hone by hand, but when I need to take a lot off, set an angle, etc., I use this jig or the Eclipse jig. If there is a lot to hog off, I just need a jig to keep the angle where I want it while I try to ignore the fatigue in my hands and arms. Lee Valley also makes a nice jig for the power grinding wheel. I don’t think it has a 22.5 deg setting, but one should be able to get close on the wheel, then get the final exactly right by hand.
Joe- Let us know how it turns out!
26 January 2016 at 8:19 pm #134220Yeah, that’s a nasty looking chip.
You could probably get it down by hand on some 120 grit sandpaper, but the skew angle is going to make it harder. You may start rounding it over as you get tired.
I’d say go for a honing guide. I like the Veritas Mark II like Salko said for going back and keeping my bevels in line as they wander, and they now have a skew iron attachment. About $100 and you’ll have it for all your other honing needs in the future. Try Ebay and craigslist postings, too, where you can often pick one up and then buy the skew guide.
27 January 2016 at 12:03 pm #134242I think getting the skew angle perfect is what Veritas recommends on their rabbet planes. Is it a marketing ploy for their skew angle guide I don’t think it is because the blade must reach right into that corner to cut the rabbet. If he doesn’t get it right it will render the tool obsolete according to Veritas.
I have the honing guide, but not the skew angle guide. My impression is that the skew angle guide is a convenience, like their bevel angle guide, and that you could use a protractor or other appliance to set the angle prior to clamping the blade down. It would be slower, but if you don’t deal with many skews, it would save some money and be one fewer gadget kicking around. Am I mistaken?
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