Bevels
- This topic has 4 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 2 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
I was just watching Matt Estlea talking about primary bevels at 25-degrees and secondary bevels at 30-degrees.
I like him, he seems very skilled: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtCAbP_B4as&feature=youtu.be
Do you do this? I have a 30-degree bevel, only, as per Paul’s advice and they seem to work well enough. Wondering if I’m missing out on something. Probably not if Paul’s happy with 30-degrees only.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
I’ve never done the secondary bevel. It’s supposed to speed up sharpening speed, as you only need to touch up the secondary bevel, and not the primary. In one of Paul’s videos, he explains this. I believe his resolution is to just roll the chisel a little when you sharpen. Works for me.
That’s a good point. I think the natural movement of the hands and arms when performing the push and pull strokes on the diamond stone, would aid in that respect.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Mine are all sharpened to 25 degrees, though with a little roll as Paul shows. They seem to work fine. I think you can easily overcomplicate sharpening – as Paul might say, have a simple system and then get on with life.
I used to use secondary bevels for everything, now, for some things I still do, and for some things I can’s because the plane blade is wider than the diamond plates I use (so I have to sharpen those freehand (or spend a large amount of money on new diamonds, that I would prefer to spend on other things)). I have found that a well loaded strop within arms reach is the most useful.
To be honest, I found secondary bevels only really of use if you had a good honing guide and a decent fixture to set them up with, and have trouble with, fear of, or no experience of freehand sharpening.
Colin, Czech Rep.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.