Box #3. Time for clocks
Welcome! / Forums / Project Series / Dovetail Boxes / Box #3. Time for clocks
- This topic has 15 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 2 months ago by Sandy.
-
AuthorPosts
-
It took me 3 tries, but u finally got a box with a sliding lid. I’ll male more of these in the future, but for now I’d like to move on to clock making.
I finished this box with shellac and had some trouble with an uneven finish due to the rapid drying time of shellac. It was hard to keep a wet edge. I’ll try cutting the shellac next time. I was able to sand smooth and buff with wax, but I’m not pleased with my first shellac use. I’ll have to keep trying as the advantages of shellac are considerable.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.31 January 2014 at 10:27 pm #26962If your clocks turns out as good as your boxes, you will in good shape. Thanks for sharing.
31 January 2014 at 11:42 pm #26965The box looks great Denise, congratulations!
What kind of shellac did you use? I just use the Zinsser stuff. I bought an empty quart can and mixed the shellac 1/2 and 1/2 with denatured alcohol. It takes a couple extra coats but is much easier to work with. When using shellac, 0000 steel wool is your friend. Let the last coat dry completely and buff the whole thing with steel wool. My goal is to remove the gloss. Then apply two coats of paste wax. The finished product will have a nice even sheen and will be smooth as glass.
Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing your clock.
1 February 2014 at 6:19 am #26969The box looks great Denise!! Congratulations!!
I had the same issues the first time I used shellac, but I am getting better at it and I love it. On a few projects I have gone with a spray can and just applied several light coats. A light spray will be dry enough to rub down with steel wool in less than 15 minutes. I have been known to spray three coats and then finish with wax in less than an hour.
That looks nice, Denise! My first attempt with a brush was so bad that I sanded it down completely. I thought Paul does it so it has to be the way. I did build up too much and there were very few even spots in between the nibbings. From there on I used a rag and got very good results. After a few projects I thought I would be experienced enough to go back to the brush – Paul still did it so it had to be the way – and the nibbings were back… Then I bought one of those hake brushes and that made the difference for me. I could apply with a lot more control. Those brushes are a joy to use.
1 February 2014 at 9:46 am #26974Box looks great well done, I notice it does not have the groove around the top rim of the box was this a design choice or have you not got as far as making the screw in the block tool. If you have not made one yet they are easy to make and work great, The clock also has this detail on it
How did you night school classes go
1 February 2014 at 2:02 pm #26976@jfe1978 , immediately after the first coat. Once the first coat of wax has hazed over and you buff it out, it is dry. So you can then add the second coat. I have tried a couple of different brands and the “haze over” time varies a little, but both took a second coat immediately after I buffed out the first coat.
I should add that I apply the first coat with 0000 steel wool and the second coat with a soft cloth.
Thank you all for the encouragement.
And I knew you would have great advice about shellac.
I’ll try cutting it with alcohol and try a hake brush. I’ve looked at 2 local art stores and neither had hake brushes. Do you have a good online source you’ve used for hake brushes?
I used Zinsser sanding sealer and a very poor quality brush. I has so many brush marks that I had to sand with 220 first and then go over it with 0000 steel wool. The finish looks and feels good now. Upon @gregs recommendation, I’ll try 2 coats of wax.
@daveg – I’ve attended 3 night classes so far and the beginning is too basic, but soon we will begin building our final projects. We have to design and build a small table using mortise and tenon joinery and the leg design uses an apron. Taking this intro class is a means to an end for me. The local school requires you to complete the intro class in order to participate in the advanced classes. It’s an amazing and insanely affordable school and opportunity. Red Rocks School of Fine Woodworking and Luterie if anyone is interested.Also, I just missed the detail about the bead on the top edge. I’ll certainly try that with the clock and future boxes. I have an old Stanley beading tool to tune up.
2 February 2014 at 2:07 am #27023Thanks for the heads up Denise. That link is added to my shortcuts.
6 February 2014 at 4:50 pm #27347Denise – Nice work, the finish looks good from here. I hope to start a box next week and hope it turns out looking that good. Regarding the shellac finishing, here is an article that may help provide more detailed information on it: https://s3.amazonaws.com/theBarn/Articles/Finishing/Williams%2CDon-Shellac_Finishing.pdf
It’s from Don’s barn website but I believe he wrote it for Fine WW some years back. It may seem a little detailed but keep in mind the author works as at the Smithsonian. Hope it helps a bit. Keep up the good work!
Cheers
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.