Cabriole legs
- This topic has 19 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by .
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Projects / Cabriole legs
In the end you listened to your own gut feeling and it worked for you good on you and the results were good. The method I mentioned worked for me on several occasions it’s probably slower and more tedious but it works. I use this method because I deal with a lot revering grain so using a hand plain would results in unsightly tearout. I’m glad this didn’t happen to you but keep that in mind on your future projects.
Hi Salko,
Yes, I’ll definitely keep it in mind and I do see where it could be useful. Note, however, that this test piece is actually highly-figured curly / tiger maple. You can see the stripes in the photo from the crazy, curly grain. It tears out like crazy! The shoulder plane has an extremely fine mouth and my #3, for whatever reason, is my best plane for goofy grain. I also cheated by giving five or ten swipes worth of back bevel to the #3. That’s not really for the cross-grain planing of the post so much as it is for the surface planing of the curly maple. Also, I took very fine shavings and worked slowly, in part because of the figured wood although at one point, I was taking heavier shavings with the shoulder plane (heavy for a shoulder plane, that is.)
Well, this is a sample of one. As I work through more, probably I’ll need to use your techniques, too. Thanks for sharing them!
The back bevel will do the trick I use a low angle jack with a 50° bevel on it and it works fine but nothing really smooth atleast it stops the tearout I always have to finish it off with a scraper and if need be sanding. Chris Schwarz prefers the no.3 I prefer a 4 1/2 which I don’t have so I stick with my 4.
All in all I’m glad it’s worked out for you.