Concave saw tooth baseline
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- This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 6 months ago by Mark Armstrong.
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2 November 2014 at 11:01 am #120422
I just did that out in my workshop about 10mins ago. An old saw I picked up at the local market. Worked the heel and toe a little more with the file until the ruler was sitting on all teeth, then once more over it just to make them all even. I think my file was a little too short so it was riding down the concave, using the ruler allowed me to see where the high spots were then I just put the file on a skew to focus the high spots. Seemed to work well, not sure if my advice is correct but that’s what I was doing today then I came in and just happened to read your post. Just keep an eye on how much your taking off, you don’t want to end up removing the teeth altogether or you will have nothing to judge the teeth spacing by. If the teeth get close to being removed then a few quick files in the gullet will keep your spacing marks present as you continue to lower the high teeth by topping.
Hope this helps, I started sharpening the teeth after topping, got to about 20 front teeth then decided to finish up for the day, my eyes and neck were strained. I tested the newly sharpened teeth on a piece of scrap and it seems to be much better than my last attempt at sharpening, before I watched Paul’s videos. Can’t wait to get the whole saw done and put it to work, I think it will become my new favorite. The progressive rake angle helps a lot.2 November 2014 at 1:15 pm #120425I know the proper thing to do is joint the teeth with a file so that surface is relativity flat and then resharpen the teeth.
BUT since almost all of my cutting with a bigger saw is either RIP or Cross cutting a board, what is the problem if the saw is concave?
As long as the teeth are sharp and have the proper geometry it still cuts the board perfectly well.
Just curious….
2 November 2014 at 4:58 pm #120434I have a frend that is a sew Doc. I will send him a note and get you a reply may take a day he is not big on the deject thing
FrankjFrank, I’m not sure if I did the saw correct but I just finished it up an hour a ago. Basically I had to take a 1/4 inch of metal from the heel and toe. I had to file to teeth completely off at either end to get the tooth line straight. I guess it was just filed heavily in the middle for so many years. It’s all sharpened up with straight teeth and cuts a straight line.
2 November 2014 at 11:07 pm #120447A saw will still work satisfactory if a little concave.
You done right brining teeth back in straight line.
The best hand saws are normally breasted convex.
The reason for this apparently more teeth come into contact with wood.
When a saw is sharp , set correctly and you know how to saw properly you will hardly notice much difference. -
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