container for ground coffee
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Tagged: boxes, coffee, humble pie, storage
- This topic has 44 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 6 months ago by 5ivestring.
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2 January 2017 at 4:32 am #143757
Hope it was pine. Yea, I wouldn’t have much time for it either if I lived on the beach
4 January 2017 at 1:43 am #143789True, coffee is kind of a dumb creature. But you would know, I would know, and anyone who see’s it would know.
I’ve started again and have my tails sawn and one edge the waste chiselled. So far it’s perfect. With the other 3 sides of tail already sawn, I line them up and perfect. Removing the waste from them is not a problem. If I screw up now it will be on the pins, and at least I will still have the tails and won’t have to completely start over.
I don’t blame my tools on this, I blame my eye / hand for not following true. But on the first attempt I used a new saw with a pistol grip. First time I used it. Good saw. But this second time I went back to my much cheaper bamboo wrapped Japanese saw and felt so much more a home with it. But it was still me, not the saw. The saw goes where you tell it to.
On the down side, this box is a little shorter, and it’s looking kind of boxy. I might have to build a pedestal base or who knows what. I was going to cut the top off after putting on the lid and base, but now I’m thinking I might make a separate top to try to give it just that much extra height in looks. Not sure yet. I’ve never done a base before.
4 January 2017 at 3:36 am #143792I know what you mean, the teeth can cause horrible results. But this was a good (and expensive) saw from England. I’m going to work with it, get used to it. It cuts straight as can be, I mean STRAIGHT! The sep? width of the teeth are a little larger than my Japanese saw plus the japanese saw has more teeth per inch. Mostly, I’m just used to it. The new saw does cut a lot faster, probably 5 times as fast. Feels real solid too.
4 January 2017 at 7:53 pm #143800Paul Sellers just published a new video about setting fine saws with a hammer and a punch. It might have some good information for you. But I suppose, technically, the main difference between the Japanese saw and the English one is the stroke direction, pull vs. push. You need to get used to that.
Dieter
4 January 2017 at 9:43 pm #143802The draw vs push of the saw did really throw me for a bit. But I have a very light touch with the saw and really it’s not that bad, but I do like the cut on the pull much better. No flex in the blade and it seems like I have more control.
But I sure like the feel of the new saw and how straight it cuts. Practice is the key, I’m sure.
So far I have all the tails cut and waste removed, starting on the pins now, one edge almost done. This is the part I have the most trouble with. In the past I would get too far from my knife line on the waste side. I found I was screwing things up trying to detail it with the chisel. Now I cut as absolutely close to the line as I can and it seems to work. Well, mostly it does.
I used the Japanese saw on the tails and started with it on the pins, but I’m going to try the new saw again and just be as careful as I can.
4 January 2017 at 11:43 pm #143808Perhaps this came up earlier in the thread, but, I think Shannon Rogers does a great job of teaching how to saw.
Don’t get me wrong; Paul does too. And I think they’re very much in agreement regarding the mechanics. But Shannon got me cutting straighter due to something in his presentation. Partly it’s the deeper exploration of details of how to.
If the transition from Japanese to Westen saws is challenging, this video on sawing straight may help: http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/rww191-one-step-to-better-hand-sawing/
Also Shannon has a number of other sawing videos (sawing seems to be his thing) which you might enjoy.
Keep us posted on your progress.
9 January 2017 at 3:12 pm #144027Hi everyone,
Here is the almost completed project. It still needs several coats of lacquer or varnish and a handle or knob for the top lid to lift with.
I used a honey amber dye on it and it is sealed with one coat of brushed on lacquer so you can handle it without the dye getting on your hands. Not sure I’ll stay with lacquer or use varnish. Not sure of the pros and cons there.
The lid fits absolutely perfect! It can be put on with any side forward. It will seat all the way down, I tried it a few times, but for now we will only push it down till snug, as it will most likely wear in over time.
I want to thank everyone for all the information on different woods and ideas. I will post one final picture of it after we get the knob and the finish is completed. We’re moving into a new home in the next month or so where I will have an actual shop to work in instead of working on my balcony here.
Gary
- This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by 5ivestring.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by 5ivestring.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by 5ivestring.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.9 January 2017 at 9:15 pm #144052It looks very nice indeed! Could you make another photo with the lid open?
I didn’t mention it before, because I wanted to leave it to your imagination, but when a shine is needed, I really like shellack. I have been working with shellack for a little while now, tried a simplistic french polish on an old desk, used it as a sealer with no clue what to put on next, brushed it onto wooden tool handles etc. It is amazing stuff and really not so expensive, because you only need tiny amounts. One other big advantage of shellack over natural oils is, that it dries very quickly and hardens in less than a week. And it is not known to cause allergic reactions, instead it is even used to coat pills.
Well, sorry, I didn’t meant to highjack this topic for advertising shellack, but I am right in the middle of learning, how nice this stuff is. So back to the topic: How did you attach the bottom?
Dieter
9 January 2017 at 11:55 pm #144067HI Hugo,
By all means, hijack the post, that’s why it’s here.
I have always wondered about shellack, I’m still learning about lacquer and varnish. I actually did think about shellack this time though, but passed the thought off for lack of knowledge. I might have to order it from the states, things down here are really hard to find and sometimes very expensive.
Yes, I will post another picture or 3. With the box and lid fully closed, completely open and the inside, which is natural wood, no dye or finish.
I had a brass handle we (my wife and I) thought about using, but decided it need a knob instead. Probably a porcelain know with some kind of deco on it. Without the know, it just looks too boxy. Well, it is a box I guess.
I’m going to go ahead and finish the lacquer by brush. It works ok, just a lot harder to do. It’s that or wait 2 months or so for our new house with a real work shop, not just a 2 x 2 table on my balcony.
Gary (all ideas welcome)
12 January 2017 at 1:38 pm #144139@hugonotti and everyone else
The local Home center (like Home Depot) got in a few cans of spray lacquer so here is the finished product.
Thanks for all the comments and advise.
Gary
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.12 January 2017 at 8:31 pm #144151Well,
it
looks
nicespeechless, this is a great job, I can smell the coffee
2 September 2018 at 7:33 pm #550826@mxbroome1, I’ve had several request from family and friends for a coffee box. I’ve also made tooth pick boxes and napkin boxes. Sugar box would be about the same as a coffee box.
I had one person ask for the napkin box with a drawer below it for the tooth picks. Haven’t made that one yet.
I used Paul’s templet idea to make the boxes. After the templet was made, it’s pretty fast to turn out boxes after getting the material squared and cut to size.
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