Disston Saws
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- This topic has 41 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 2 months ago by Mark68.
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By my count it looked like ~12 TPI. But yeah, those teeth look pretty gnarly. Not sure you need to completely re-cut (i.e. Paul’s hacksaw video) or if you could just file enough off to flatten down the edge and use what’s left of the existing teeth to sharpen it up.
dbockel2 is right, just follow the pattern that is already there.
If some teeth are too *shallow* right now, take those teeth down a bit before you run the flat file over the whole teeth run, so you don’t lose the pattern.
You should try to avoid losing the existing pattern when running the flat file along.
Thanks for the advice
On page 44 of Paul’s new book (woodworking hand tools), he recommends a 6″ saw file XX slim for saws with 12-16 TPI. I think my saw has 12 TPI but the only saw file I can find is for 10 to 11 TPI:
https://www.workshopheaven.com/4-188-06-2-0-bahco-double-extra-slim-saw-file-150mm-tang-only.html
Will it suffice or do I need to get exactly what Paul recommends? It’s XX slim but the TIP is out
- This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by Mark68.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by Mark68.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by Mark68.
11 February 2017 at 2:41 pm #309135I think, and correct me if I’m wrong someone, that it needs be at least twice the height of the teeth so bigger is OK but not smaller. I bought Bahco BAH1875 Extra Slim Taper Sawfile 4-187-05-2-0 and that worked fine for me on 10 and 12 TPI saws. You can pick them up on ebay for less than £5
17 February 2017 at 3:05 am #309277Hi Mark, the pitting is not too bad. I have restored heaps of Disston saws and have a couple just like that and one had pitting worse than yours. I like to pull them apart completely; remove the handle and give it a good sand and I like to coat the handle with Tung Oil and finish with bee’s wax – smells nice and feels good. Remove the brass back by holding the blade in a vice and tapping it off with wood (so as not to dent it). I flatten the teeth then use wet and dry to polish the blade up, sharpen and set and put it all back together. The pitting doesn’t affect performance at all but it will make the teeth more susceptible to breaking if you set them too much (they don’t need very much). They are a truly beautiful saw to use – you’ve done well.
19 February 2017 at 8:09 am #309347Hey Mark, you could file them to either cross cut or rip; rip is easier and, depending on what you use it for, probably more usable. The rip cut is good for dovetails and cutting tenon cheeks but a cross cut is useful for cutting mitres. Either way you can’t go wrong and be prepared for a few failures early on; the good news is that if you do stuff something up you can always do it again 🙂
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