17 January 2013 at 10:16 pm #6629
Dave, we need a Stanley 141 to plane stopped grooves. 🙂
I met the same problem since I have build a little cabinet and I need stopped grooves for the glass doors to run in. My smallest chisel is 6 mill and the groove 3/16″. Maybe I will try to make a poor mans bullnose plough plane tomorrow and stick the 3/16 plane iron through a block of wood….
I enjoy working wood in Germany.18 January 2013 at 9:49 am #6645
Dave, we need a Stanley 141 to plane stopped grooves. I met the same problem since I have build a little cabinet and I need stopped grooves for the glass doors to run in. My smallest chisel is 6 mill and the groove 3/16″. Maybe I will try to make a poor mans bullnose plough plane tomorrow and stick the 3/16 plane iron through a block of wood….
Sorry Jeff, this was meant for you. Dave had commented on another post so I obviously got a little confused 😉
I enjoy working wood in Germany.18 January 2013 at 4:34 pm #6659AnonymousInactive
Florian, I was wondering how they did a stopped groove. What I ended up doing was taking the plow plane cutter a little deep and going as far as I could. Then that gave me a starting groove for the chisel. I’ve thought about it and wondered if you couldn’t clamp a scrap next to the groove as a fence and just use a chisel. I don’t know.18 January 2013 at 4:44 pm #6660AnonymousInactive
Stopped grooves with a plough plane18 January 2013 at 7:28 pm #6670
@Ken: Thanks mate, I have to watch it on my computer because it doesn’t show here.
@Jeff: I tried out several things today. I began with mounting the record 44 onto a piece of wood 2×3 with the blade fixed to the front of the wood and not in the plane and it worked but only for a little while because then the blade went loose and I had to think it over. Than I decided to imitate the poor man’s router and that worked very well. The only problem with that was that you decide on the distance from the edge the moment you drill the hole. For the body I took a 2x3x7 wood and sawed a shoulder at about half of the length an half the thickness (like a half-lap). This provides a fence that runs pretty well along the board that is to be grooved.
I will try to post some pictures later on. I like to experiment first and if it doesn’t work I start the research 🙂
I enjoy working wood in Germany.18 January 2013 at 8:14 pm #6671David GillParticipant
Great video Ken , how do you find all this good info
Wigan, Lancs. England :18 January 2013 at 9:35 pm #6674
Here are some pictures of my test today. The round-one is the final version without the cutter fitted.
It works fine.
I enjoy working wood in Germany.18 January 2013 at 11:49 pm #6679AnonymousInactive
Brilliant Florian. Simple & elegant solution. Paul will appreciate that one.
After looking at your solution and watching Ken’s link, I realized I can simply screw a fence on the bottom of my router plane. Duh.19 January 2013 at 4:05 pm #6693
thanks and it is very quick and easy to make. But you have to make them per project because if you want to be prepared before you need many different bases with different hole diameters corresponding to the different cutters and with different distances from shoulder to cutter. Maybe the distance-issue could be worked around by somehow clamp or temporarily glue shims of different thicknesses on the shoulder.
You are right. The router is also a way to do it. For me it would be the best solution since all my chisels are metric (6mm, 8mm, …) and my plough cutters are in inches. I would need to buy the narrower cutters plus the fence for my veritas router. Then the cutters would finally correspond. Yipiieeeh! Unfortunately the fence is out of stock at my favourite tool store 😉
I enjoy working wood in Germany.19 January 2013 at 6:03 pm #6698AnonymousInactive
Florian. I’ve got to buy the smaller cutters as well ($49). I can’t believe I completely forgot about my router plane. I’ve even got the fence. I hate getting old.
However, I think your chisel solution is the best for those who don’t want to spend a lot of money. I thought about adding shims to your groover as well and think that would work very well to offset the groove.19 January 2013 at 7:49 pm #6702
For the cleanest cut it’s best to do like Paul did it for the wallclock panel and deepen the cut with the tenon saw prior to chiseling the groove.
I enjoy working wood in Germany.19 January 2013 at 11:24 pm #6707Steve FollisParticipant
I know this isn’t a box, but this is my first hand cut dovetails on a significant project. I was asked to make these bed steps for a friend, and I decided to go ahead and do some real handwork on it. The mortises for the rails were all chopped by hand and fit nice and snug, using Paul’s methods. And the Dovetails were cut using the instructions from the box. They aren’t perfect, and I used a bit of filler in some gaps, but it is minimal and looks pretty decent. The rest of the work was all done on machines.
It has been a fun project and a nice evolution from the power tools, much more relaxing. I still have a bit of cleaning up and sanding to do, and then ready for the finish.
Memphis, Tennessee19 January 2013 at 11:35 pm #6709AnonymousInactive
Nice work Stephen20 January 2013 at 1:54 am #6711specmtnParticipant
Great looking project Stephen. I hope you haven’t copyrighted the design, it would work well in my kitchen to retrieve items in the back of the top cabinets for those of us who are height challenged.20 January 2013 at 9:47 am #6713juryaanParticipant
Looks great Stephen.
Lopik - Netherlands
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.