Fret Saw Method?
Welcome! / Forums / Project Series / Dovetail Boxes / Fret Saw Method?
- This topic has 7 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 2 months ago by rickcorradini.
-
AuthorPosts
-
15 January 2014 at 11:33 pm #26033
This is aimed at Paul but keen to hear any thoughts/views.
I was wondering if there was a reason for not using a fret saw to cut out the waste on the tails and pins. It seems to be a common method and quicker than chopping out the waste using chisel alone.
Interested to know if there was any benefit of one method over the other or is it simply down to personal preference?
Mike
16 January 2014 at 4:25 am #26038I’ve wondered this myself. Good question. I’ve only used the “chiral alone” method. The fret saw method appears to have a lot of delicate clean up work. Anxious to hear others input.
Ok, I’ll throw my two cents in.
Using a coping saw: Difficult to get close to the base line because of the turn required and blade thickness- generally requires an angled cut in both directions, leaving a triangular mid section.
Using a Fret saw: Thinner and spiral blades are available which mitigates some of the above mentioned difficulties, Slow due to the high tooth count, but better than the coping saw and easier to get near to the baseline.
My main problem is that for me, using either of the above leaves almost no support for the underlying fibers so that chopping results in a lot of fiber tearout.
When just chopping out the waste the fibers below the depth of the chisel cut are providing support resulting in either no or much reduced tearout.Chris Schwarz is able to saw very close to the baseline and then uses a paring action to finish up cutting to the baseline.
Personally, I’m not in that big a hurry, so I’ve taken to just chopping them out.
Don’t know if this helps or not–just some observations.
Best,
CraigPaul is still teaching us fundamentals, i’m sure other dovetail methods will be taught later in the series.
If you want to see Paul’s coping method it’s on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywkwvoJALEA
and
21 January 2014 at 7:22 pm #26326I think that this is a valid question. If I am making a tool tote for garden tools, I might use a coping saw. Or a seed tray for my greenhouse and so on.I rarely use the coping saw or fret saw for fine work, which is what I do if I am making furniture and other types of woodworking. That said, for demonstrations I often use this method, but that’s because I want people to see alternative methods that can be customised to task or purpose. Mortises on an English field gate requires different levels of workmanship than we used for the coffee table. I think the essence of being a craftsman demands the extra mile of considering the investment process and matching it to its function. I like that, really.
Another thing; because a process is faster doesn’t generally make it better. I love processes that preserve integrity and avoid a production mentality that displaces the peace I get from the process.5 February 2014 at 10:02 pm #27304Thanks, Paul (and others)
All comments appreciated.
Keep up the good work.
Mike
Hi Mike,
I practice both methods regularly. And by practice, I mean cutting dovetails in either scrap or shop projects (boxes). Doing this gives me the working knowledge that I can produce more consistent high quality results with the chisel method. As my skills with the fret saw improve, I suspect my ability to produce height quality results with that method will also improve.
You should try both methods and learn from your experiences.
6 February 2014 at 1:23 am #27314Hi,
I’d like to recommend a book that explains the whys and hows of that fret/coping saw
alternative, and also many other aspects, like how to pare after sawing the waste. I think it is interesting to know other points of view. That book has a very thorough covering of dovetails:The Complete Dovetail: Handmade Furniture’s Signature Joint
by Ian J KirbyRegards,
Ricardo -
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.