Frog adjustments on Stanley Bailey 4 and larger planes

Welcome! Forums General Woodworking Discussions Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration Frog adjustments on Stanley Bailey 4 and larger planes

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #15100
    John Purser
    Participant

    I’ve been rehabbing a number of Stanley planes and the videos from Paul and a few others have cleared up almost everything except for one setting. When using the Frog Adjusting Screw what is a good initial setting? I’m starting off with about 1/8″ between the front edge of the frog to the rear of the mouth but honestly I have no idea if this is anywhere close to optimal. There’s such a huge range of adjustment possible I assume there’s some variable I’m not aware of that calls for a larger or smaller gap.

    Any tips? Anyone know what that “unknown variable” is that I’m missing that explains WHY this adjustment exists and how to use it?

    Thanks,

    John

    John Purser
    Hubert, NC

    #15103
    Ken
    Participant
    #15114
    STEVE MASSIE
    Participant

    Ken has showed some great tutorial’s here, study these and you will be good to go. I have been using Hand Tools now for about 4 years and learned how to fettle my tools, for me this is half the fun of this great hobby.

    Steve

    Steve Massie, I live in the great State of Florida, US

    #15118
    david o’sullivan
    Participant

    cheers ken most helpful

    "we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle

    #15122
    David Gill
    Participant

    Hi Ken
    Great set of notes, In the Trouble shoot your plane notes it says about removing the corners of the blade to remove possible tracks, do you know what you should do with the corners of the chip breaker to stop it protruding beyond the blade at the corners?

    Wigan, Lancs. England :

    #15123
    Ken
    Participant

    Hi David,

    Removing the corners is only a very light rounding with a file. I would not use a grinder as suggested. The chip breaker will be fine as it is.
    Hope this helps buddy. πŸ˜‰

    #15127
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    On a smoother only corners to be rounded like Ken says use a fine file use your diamond plates to polish corners up a bit. You barley nick the corners the cap iron should not protrude you still will get cap Iorn 1/32″ from cutting edge.
    I find if cap Iron too close to cutting edge plane dose not perform as well.


    @ken

    Some great finds Ken I liked the masking tape method so simple. πŸ˜‰

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #15128
    Ken
    Participant

    @nobby1967

    Mark I wonder if putting the tape in the front of the mouth would work the same.

    #15129
    Mark Armstrong
    Participant

    @ken
    Perhaps but I would think it would be difficult to make tape to stay in place. Maybe just cut 2″ or 2 3/8″ x 2″ long strip of paper and fold round front of mouth?

    Dagenham, Essex, England

    #15146
    David Gill
    Participant

    Mark Ken
    i think i may have put too big a rads on corner but I did have the chip breaker closer than 1/32″ I will have a look later to see how far back I need the chip breaker so it does not overlap the blade at the corners , Thanks for your comments

    Wigan, Lancs. England :

    #15157
    John Purser
    Participant

    Many thanks to all, especially Ken. Those links made me rethink how I was setting up the planes, mostly because now I have a little understanding of WHY I was moving the frog back and forth.

    I got the first of the top laminations for my Seller’s style workbench planed and glued up yesterday. Not too pretty but since I’m making a 6′ bench from 8′ studs it’s workable. Now that I know what I’m doing I’ll pick better studs for the next section Certainly my planes will work better.

    John

    John Purser
    Hubert, NC

    #15158
    jgust747
    Participant

    This is when it’s nice to have several planes. A #4 can do everything but you need to adjust it for each task. Having several planes with different settings is a nice luxury that helps to speed up projects.

    Dallas, Texas

    #15160
    John Purser
    Participant

    Agreed Johan but I think I went a little overboard there. While waiting for the weather to clear up here (Near Seattle WA. UGLY winters) I kind of got hooked on looking for old tools on craigslist and ebay. I now have 8 number 5s, about 4 4s, 1 4 1/2, and a couple of threes. And a 6 and a 7 I really can’t explain. But I had great fun fettling them when it was too wet and cold out there to get any work done.

    I settled on two of the 4s and the 4 1/2 for the bench job mostly for consistency’s sake. I’ve finally gotten to the point where I can put a decent edge on them (mostly) freehand with Paul’s method and I’m kicking out shavings at a rate guaranteed to offend the neighbors if I don’t stop them from blowing down the alley.

    John Purser
    Hubert, NC

    #15161
    Ken
    Participant

    I think you need more than a N04 I would be lost without my longer planes, and they must have had a good reason to make them me thinks. πŸ˜‰

    Nice job John πŸ™‚

    #15163
    John Purser
    Participant

    No, Ken, honestly it was a pretty ugly job. Hopefully the worst I’ll ever do. But I gotta start somewhere. The plan is to learn as I go. Again, my thanks for making it so I didn’t have to make ALL the mistakes.

    John

    John Purser
    Hubert, NC

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.